Carpentry Measuring & Layout Tools
In order to carry out construction related tasks effectively and ensure that the finished components that we produce are of the highest quality, it’s important that we understand and utilise all of the appropriate layout tools at our disposal. The quality and tidiness that we strive for in our finished products begins with the accurate layout of our material components. Being able to effectively measure and mark materials is a skill critical to the success of any professional tradesperson. Here we shall take a look at the different types of layout tools, their intended uses, and how we can utilise them in our work.
Pencils
Pencils are the absolute standard for making marks within a construction or workshop environment. Pencils come in many varieties, each with their own strengths and disadvantages that lend themselves to certain physical applications. The typical construction of a pencil features a lead core surrounded by a wooden or plastic outer shell. The lead can be sharpened with a sharpener or blade to removes the outer material and brings the lead to a point.
Pencils, more specifically pencil leads, are available in a range of different hardnesses, on a scale that has been mostly standardised within the modern world. This scale contains 16 individual divisions, ranging from very soft lead to very hard lead, and reads as follows: 8B, 7B, 6B, 5B, 4B, 3B, 2B, B, HB, F, H, 2H, 3H, 4H, 5H, 6H. Some grading scales vary from this, with some containing further subdivisions, though this scale is the one that most of us will be familiar with. Within this scale, “B” stands for “Black”, “H” stands for “Hard”, and “F” stands for “Firm”, though some manufacturers state that “F” means “Fine” - in that the lead is able to be sharpened to a very fine point.
The “B” portion of the scale refers to the softness and subsequent “Blackness” of each lead, with the lead becoming softer as the number increases - 8B being the softest lead available. For the most part these “B” pencils are far too soft for use in construction applications and are generally intended for drawing/shading/artistry. This soft lead wears away too quickly and is prone to snapping or crumbling under the heavy workload associated with construction.
The “H” section of the scale describes those with harder lead, with 6H lead being the hardest commonly available. The higher end of this range is also unsuitable for use in construction applications, as the lead is too brittle for heavy marking, and suffers from the same drawbacks as the softer leads.
The comfortable selection of lead hardnesses for use in construction ranges from HB to around 4H. These leads are hard wearing and able to be sharpened to a fine point when needed. They don’t require frequent sharpening and are able to make firm and clear lines on most materials. HB pencils are almost the “universal standard” as far as pencils go and are well suited for lightweight construction tasks. 2H pencils are a better choice for most applications, both in and out of the workshop. They hold a fine point and are particularly hard wearing, though not so hard that they are too brittle. These pencils are more suited to finer work, most notably for use in second fix applications, though if needed they are strong enough to mark rougher materials, even when wet.
Now that we understand the different hardnesses of lead, here is a rundown of the features, strengths, and weaknesses of each type of pencil:
Standard Pencil 2H/HB
These pencils are best suited for more fine interior work. Some varieties have a rubber/eraser on one end so that fine/light markings can be removed from a surface. They generally come in either an octagonal/faceted shape, or a completely cylindrical shape. Both varieties fit comfortably behind the ear and stay in place through friction and adhesion. They can struggle to mark on wet timbers and can also snap easily under heavy use due to the thin lead. These pencils tend to roll away on inclined surfaces due to their cylindrical through section. Sharpening both ends of the pencil is discouraged, as this creates a sharp point that is always facing you during use, which is an unnecessary hazard.
Carpenters’ Pencil
Carpenters’ pencils, as their name suggests, are pencils designed specifically for use in carpentry/construction. They are wider in one dimension than the other, giving them a rectangular/ovular through section. This feature prevents them from rolling on inclined surfaces. The lead in good quality carpentry pencils sits somewhere around the 4H range, making them an excellent tool for use in hard wearing applications. The lead is also much thicker than that of a regular pencil, meaning it is much less likely to break, and takes much longer to wear out in between sharpening. These pencils can be sharpened to a point but crumble away quite quickly due to their relative hardness. The intended purpose of these pencils is for quick and rough layout/marking. The hard lead is suitable and strong enough for marking wet materials. The dimensions of these pencils in both width and thickness are usually standardised for use as shims - another useful feature. Due to the thickness of the exposed lead, the end of the pencil takes on a rounded appearance after some use. Carpenters’ pencils are an effective tool, and it pays to keep 2 or 3 at different degrees of sharpness in one's toolbelt/about one's person whilst working.
Traditional Mechanical Pencil
These pencils come in a variety of lead sizes that lend themselves to much finer applications. The lead “refills'' are simply long pieces of loose lead sold at varying diameters. These diameters typically range from around 1mm, in increments all the way down to 0.1mm. The lead sits around the middle of the hardness scale, usually HB or 2H. They are mostly associated with office work and or artistry. This being said, they work well in a workshop/joinery environment due to their convenience and precision. The fine lead is capable of making very thin and precise lines on clean and dry timber/sheet materials. Due to the diameter of the lead, sharpening isn’t necessary, with the mechanical action of the pencil extending the lead further out of the pencil as it is worn away.
Construction Mechanical Pencil
These pencils are a recent development, building upon the convenience of traditional mechanical pencils, and improving upon their design with a construction application in mind. The lead of these pencils tends to be around the 4H mark and are thicker than those in a traditional pencil. This makes them a durable choice for use on site. The lead in these pencils also possess a specific property that makes them very effective at marking wet timber. The lead refills can be purchased in a range of different colours, allowing for custom markings and layouts to be made. These pencils come with a plastic outer case for convenient storage of the pencils, as well as protection of the protruding lead tip. These cases often come with a pocket clip so that the pencil can be easily secured to the inside of a tool belt or a pocket. Most varieties also come with a sharpener built into the case for quick sharpening of the lead. These pencils also possess long thin necks that are capable of reaching into tight spaces. Some manufacturers also make mechanical pencils in the style of carpenter’s pencils, with a wider lead. These pencils are great for most construction applications.
Pens
Pens are a versatile marking implement that can be used in a variety of applications within construction. Pens are used to make thicker, clearer, and more permanent marks in comparison to other marking implements like pencils. Whilst they aren't always conducive to accurate marking, they can be used for effective, legible layout. Many companies produce pens specifically for use in construction, that are capable of writing on wet or dirty/dusty surfaces. Fine tip pens and wide markers are the most widely available, coming in an array of different colours.
Fine tip pen
These pens are designed for more accurate marking and writing. The fine tip can make fairly accurate marks on materials like metal or brick, where absolute precision is not required. Many designs are available in which the first few inches of the pen is also very thin, allowing for it to mark within tight spaces or holes. The fine tip is also conducive to writing small but clear denotations, helpful for electricians writing on wires or in fuse boxes for example.
Marker pen
Marker pens are more heavy-duty pens with thicker tips that are intended for rugged use. The thick tip is capable of marking on dirty or wet surfaces and making visible lines.
Lumber crayon
Lumber crayons are a thick type of wax marker that are useful for making clear and colourful marks on timber and other materials. These wax crayons come in a variety of colours that can be used to denote specific criteria. The shaft of the implement is thick enough to withstand heavy use, though they are still somewhat delicate. Specialist holders can be purchased that protect the crayon from snapping and prevent it from rubbing off inside a tool belt. They are mostly used in construction to make layout marks clearly legible, in order to minimise the risk of mistakes occurring. Carrying at least one clear colour such as blue or red can help to increase efficiency when carrying out layout tasks. Due to their material construction, they are prone to melting under exposure to heat, or in particularly hot weather.
Tape measures/reels
Tape measures and reels are amongst the most essential tools within the modern building industry and are often taken for granted. Whilst this tool may seem basic in its design, its creation only occurred within the last 200 years, with wide scale introduction only taking place in the last 100 years or so. The convenient design of tape measures and reels allows for accurate layout and surveying procedures to take place at a speed and level of precision that would have been far more difficult without them. The basic premise of these tools involves a long, thin strip of material, either composite plastic or metal, that is wound around itself within a larger protective housing. The “blade”, as it is known, is either retracted back into the housing after use through the turn of a handle, or through self-automated spring action. The blades of these measuring devices are accurately engraved or printed on with a full scale of the intended measuring system. These measuring systems are most commonly Imperial and Metric systems, with standard UK and European tapes featuring both scales on the same blade.
Tape measures are the smaller of the two and are convenient enough to carry around during working activities. They feature a spring-loaded clip that can be hooked over a pocket or belt, with many toolbelts featuring a specific pocket for the tape. Common construction tapes are usually 5m or 8m long, with 10m also available from some retailers.
Tape reels are often longer than tape measures, and are hand powered in their operation. They are used by surveyors and ground working crews to survey or set out large areas during the planning stages of construction projects. They can also be used to great effect to take specific measurements over large distances during residential construction. Standard tape reels can be 30-50m long, with options for longer reels available.
There are many styles of tape measures and reels, each with varying lengths, standouts, blade thicknesses, and marking patterns. Often, tape measures made for use in heavy construction feature locking mechanisms to help hold a standout at its given length. The blade features a tab on its end that can be hooked over or butted into materials to take a measurement. The tab on the end moves slightly on the blade, and travels backwards and forwards the thickness of itself. This ensures that whether hooking over or pushing into a surface, the measurement given will always be the same.
The markings on the blade of a tape are set out in an incremental manner that is conducive to fast and efficient work. Whether in metric or imperial, the markings are subdivided to make reading the blade easier. Specific recurring measurements are marked on the blades of building tape measures, with special markings for 400mm and 16” centres, as well as 2” and 19 and 3/16” centres. For any tradesperson in the UK or Europe, possessing a tape measure with both imperial and metric measurements on it, and understanding how to use them and the conversions between the two, can help to increase one's efficiency and effectiveness on site.
Rules and rulers
Rules come in a variety of scales and lengths and are used to great effect in finer projects and procedures. For smaller components, accurate layout is only achieved by smaller layout tools, such as rules. Small rules are used in joinery as well as second fix operations as an edge to mark against with a knife, as well as for laying out components. These small rules are typically engraved with finer increments of the measuring systems we use to allow for greater precision. Rules by nature have also preceded tape measures and reels for thousands of years, existing in some form or another within the construction industry for as long as buildings have been made. Folding rules are a halfway step in the evolution of measuring tools and the development of the tape measure, allowing for an extendable measuring instrument that can fold into a more portable size. Aside from the obvious, they can be used to scribe components, pry open small gaps in components, as well as a plethora of additional situational applications. Scale rules are commonly used in construction to scale measurements from plans.
Compasses
A pair of compasses is a marking tool that can be used for a variety of different construction tasks. Originally this tool was intended for marking circles, radii, and swinging arcs. The tool consists of 2 legs that are joined together at one end by an adjustable hinge. A marking compass has a point at the end of one of the legs, with a lead or an attachment point for a pencil at the end of the other. A quality compass can be adjusted incrementally by an adjustment wheel. The point on the leg can be placed at a centre point for a consistent arc or circle to be marked. This is often used in carpentry for marking rounds on the corners of workpieces or drawing technical diagrams. This tool can also be used as an accurate scribing tool – the process of which we’ll look at later.
Combination square
A combination square, often colloquially called a “combi square”, is a marking tool that sees much use in joinery and second fix carpentry. The tool is intended for marking 90 and 45-degree angles on square stock. The body of the square registers against the stock, with an adjustable protruding ruler laying across the workpiece. The ruler can be adjusted in and out of the body with a thumb screw that locks it into place. This function can be used to scribe lines of specific distances along the edge of boards. The ruler can be removed from the body completely to allow for the flat marking of work pieces. Common sizes of these squares include a 12”/300mm length of ruler and a smaller 6”/150mm variety. The body of the square often features a spirit level bubble that can be used for a number of small levelling tasks. The square also features a small, pointed metal scribe that is threaded in the body, used for accurate marking. Whilst speed squares are more suitable for use in structural carcassing tasks, many operatives still opt for combination squares as general-purpose squares. Overall, these squares are a staple for accurate marking in carpentry, and every operative should own one.
Speed square
The speed square is a layout tool that is used for the quick and accurate marking of boards on site. They can often be found as a part of a tool belt setup, due to their multitude of functions. The square is a right-angle triangle in shape, with one of the edges being lipped. This lip can be hooked onto a board, with the perpendicular edge being used to mark square lines across the board. With the lip still registered against the edge of the board, the angled side of the square is a perfect 45-degree line - for marking mitres. The right-angle corner of the lip can be used as a pivot point on the board, with a series of etched markings along the hypotenuse of the square denoting specific angles in degrees or pitch. This enables custom angles to be marked easily in scenarios such as roofing. A cutout in the centre of the square can be used in the same way with an alternative scale for finding the plumb cut of a hip rafter. Some models feature multiple incremental notches perpendicular to the lipped edge that can be used as a pencil scribe for marking lines at set distances parallel to the edge of the board. These tools are perfect for use in the tool belt, as they are affordable, accurate, and robust. We will look at how the speed square can be used to layout rafters and mark custom angles later in the book.
Try square
Try squares are a very basic form of layout tool used for making 90-degree marks. The tool features a thick body that registers against the face of a workpiece, with a blade that projects perpendicularly from it. This blade is used to mark 90-degree lines across a workpiece. It is a useful tool but considering other marking tools like this are capable of more in just as small of a package, a try square is less favourable than the alternatives.
Mitre square
Mitre squares are very similar in construction to try squares, with the difference being that their blade is capable of marking 45 degree and 135 degrees lines. Again, this is a useful tool, but why carry both a try square and a mitre square when a combination square fulfils the purpose of both? This is obviously not the case when working in a workshop where storage space is not as big of a consideration.
Roofing/framing square
Roofing/framing squares are larger layout squares that are used for marking out specific framing and roofing angles. The typical construction of a framing square features a 400mm tongue at a right angle to a 600mm long blade. The tool can be used for layout and marking the angles of plumb and seat cuts when framing roofs, which we’ll look at in depth later on in the book. The blade of the square features a rafter table with a range of information relating to cut roofing. Both the tongue and the blade are incrementally etched in either imperial or metric measurements for layout purposes. They can be used to effectively measure and layout wall plates and rafters in conjunction with the relevant on centre spacings.
Chalk line/box
Chalk lines are a compact layout tool that are used for marking straight lines over long or awkward distances and find many uses within the construction industry. The construction of a chalk line features a string line that is wound around a spool contained within a box. The chalk box is filled with coloured chalk through a small trap door in the box. The string line can be pulled out to the desired length and then effectively rewound into the box with a handle once used. Basic chalk lines feature a standard 1:1 wind ratio with the handle, with more expensive varieties featuring internal mechanisms that speed up the rewinding rate for increased efficiency. On the end of the string is a metal hook that can be placed over the end of material or the head of a nail. With the hook secured in place, the line can be pulled out to the appropriate length and aligned with the desired layout mark. Once the line is in place and pulled tight, the middle of the line is lifted away from the workpiece and then released. The string will snap onto the surface of the material, leaving a perfectly straight line of chalk. These marks can be made on subfloors to denote the location of partitions, as well as marking datum lines on walls. They can also be used for marking long cuts on sheet materials. Different colours of chalk are available and can be used to denote different criteria.
Bevels
Bevels are a marking tool that are used to transfer custom angles and bevels onto workpieces. The tool consists of an adjustable blade that protrudes from a slit in the end of a solid body. A bolt that passes through the body and blade keeps the two pieces together and can be tightened in order to pinch a specific angle in place. The most common application for a bevel is to transfer the angle of two intersecting surfaces onto a workpiece, in order to cut a workpiece accurately into this space. For example, a bevel can be used to find the angle at the point of a gable, so that cladding or sheathing can be accurately marked and cut into place.
String line
String lines are a simple piece of utility that has been used within construction for thousands of years. The basic premise behind the use of a string line follows that a line pulled tight between two points can only ever be straight, provided there is no deviated caused by external forces. String lines are used in modern construction in order to straighten components as well as to carry out layout procedures. The most common uses for these techniques within carpentry include straightening fascia lines and ladder frames as well as counter battening ceilings.
String lines can also be used in conjunction with a plumb bob in order to plumb up components. As the weight of the plumb bob pulls the string taught, the string displays a perfectly vertical (plumb) reference axis. This method was a staple of layout and construction before the invention of modern spirit levels and lasers, and though it is less favoured in modern construction, it can still be used to great effect in certain scenarios. String lines can be attached at fixed points in a number of different ways, typically wound around half set nails. Whilst string lines are very effective tools, it’s important to note that long lengths can deviate due to gravity or strong winds.
Here we shall take a quick look at some different methods of attaching these lines.
The first step in pulling a tight line is to fix the line to a starting point. A loop can be tied into the end of the string, which can be effectively hooked over a nail or screw head. This method is very simple but can be difficult to undo after the string has been pulled tight. Another method involves creating a half hitch at the end of the string. This can be done by forming a large loop in the hands, pushing the finger and thumb through the loop from the underside, and then twisting the loop into two smaller loops. Both loops are then hooked over the nail head, with the remaining string being pulled backwards against the loop around the nail. The friction created holds the loops tight and prevents it from coming undone. When tension is removed from the string, the hitch will come undone.
With the string attached to a set point, we can pull it tight and attach the other end to a fixed point. This can also be done in a few ways. The easiest method is to create a loop in the line at the approximate length of pull and twist the loop 4-5 times around the finger. This twisted loop is placed over the nail head, with the remaining string being pulled towards the main string. As the slack is pulled out of the line towards the nail, the excess string is pulled away from the nail with the other hand. When the string is adequately taut, the excess string is pulled in the other direction, tightening the loops and holding the string in place with friction. To undo the line, simply tug the excess string back again, and the loops will pop undone.
Spirit level
Spirit levels are a type of levelling tool that are common in modern construction. These extruded aluminium rods feature one or more spirit level bubbles at particular alignments within its length. The spirit level bubbles themselves are clear plastic or glass capsules mostly full of a liquid, typically coloured mineral spirits, with a small portion of the capsule left unfilled to create the bubble. As such, these small capsules can be aligned perfectly horizontally by adjusting them until the bubble inside the capsule lines up perfectly centrally within the two indicators on the capsule. When fitted within a metal box extrusion either parallel or perpendicular to its length, the accuracy of these capsules can be extended to match the larger scale of construction. Common sizes of spirit levels include 2’, 4’, and 6’, though a plethora of other metric and specialist sizes are available. When longer levels are laid horizontally on components such as joists, we can accurately ensure the level of the joists is correct. When held vertically against a component such as a door jamb, we can check to ensure that it is perfectly plumb.
The straight element of the levels can also be used to ensure that components are flat without bumps or hollows, or to follow floor levels through a building. They can also be used as a rod to attach a laser level receiver to and as a straight edge to trace along when marking or cutting sheet materials. If knocked around or dropped the extrusions can become bent, or the capsules can become knocked out of alignment. In order to check if a spirit level is still accurate, place it on a flat horizontal or vertical surface and take note of the location of the bubble. Flip the level end to end or side to side and check the bubble again. If the bubble is in the same place, the level can be trusted. If the location of the bubble varies depending on the orientation of the level, it cannot be trusted. When tracing a datum line around a building or a corner with a level, ensure that the level is flipped end to end every time the level is moved. This will ensure that any small inaccuracy in the calibration of the level is cancelled out over a long distance.
Spray paint
Spray paint is a form of layout and marking utility that is used to great effect in marking and denoting specific components. Generic spray paint can be used in construction for many applications including but not limited to denoting walls to be knocked out during demolition procedures, marking desired component locations such as radiator or bathroom component locations, as well as larger scale groundwork layout lines. Specialist construction “line marking paint” is the most commonly used type of spray paint for these applications and is used for marking lines as the name suggests. In groundwork operations, clear markings can be made on loose soil. These cans feature an upwards facing nozzle, that is pointed towards the ground with the can being inverted. As the dual triggers are pulled in, the paint is jetted out of the nozzle and onto the substrate. These paints come in a variety of different colours for use in denoting different components.
Fine tip sprayer
These tools are a recent development and fill a niche application to great effect. Whilst not essential to own, they are certainly useful and can help to save time. The tool features a small container of colourful spray paint, propelled out the nozzle in small bursts when pressure is applied to the tip. To use the tool the tapered end of the tip is placed into a hole and the pressure is applied. The nozzle will compress, and a small burst of paint will be jetted through the hole and onto the substrate behind. This is incredibly useful for marking the location of bolts or other mechanical anchors used for assembling structural components.
Marking knives
Marking knives are an ergonomic style of knife that are intended for use in woodworking in order to mark clear lines. Sharp marking knives are capable of producing layout marks that are much thinner than pencil lines, allowing for more accuracy and precision. Whilst this kind of knife typically sees more use in cabinetry and furniture making, they can be used to great effect in second fix carpentry applications such as cutting in hinges or latches on doors. Another advantage that marking knives possess over other marking implements like pencils is that the nature of the line they leave also severs the surface fibres of the timber. This allows for further woodworking techniques to be carried out in finer applications. It also helps to physically define layout areas with a solid knife wall. The design of most marking knives features an ergonomic handle with a long, fine blade that can be easily manoeuvred into tight spaces or traced along a ruler. Some forms of knives feature a fixed blade that must be periodically sharpened, with others featuring designs that can utilise disposal blades.
Bradawl
An awl or bradawl is a type of marking instrument that features a sharp point for marking accurate hole locations. The main shank of the awl is either cylindrical or square in cross section, and is relatively short, about 3 or 4 inches in length. The end of the shank is sharpened to a point and can be easily resharpened with sandpaper or a file when dull. The shank protrudes from a small and comfortable handle. The shape of the handle can vary but is often more bulbous than other tool handles. This is due to the intended downward force that a user exerts on the handles with their palm. The large and round handle helps to make this process as comfortable as possible. Typically, the awl is used to make an indentation in the surface of a workpiece to indicate where a hole is to be drilled. The fine point of a drill bit then easily registers in this awl hole and helps to keep the hole in the intended place, preventing the drill bit from drifting off the mark when starting the hole. Awls can also be used to make holes in softer materials, as is their intended use in leatherworking.
Angle finders
Angle finders are a useful tool for calculating the exact angle in degrees of a specific component. There are a variety of different styles that are used within the construction industry, each with different features and nuances. Here is a brief explanation of the most popular styles, explaining how and when they are used.
Digital angle finder
The digital angle finder is an electronic angle measuring tool that displays the angle of a given component on a digital display. The two arms that pivot around a central point can be adjusted to fit to the profile of a given component or angle, with the screen accurately displaying the angle of the component in degrees. These are commonly used by window fitters to find the angles of triangular windows. They can also be used to find the pitch of an existing roof.
Analogue angle finder
The analogue angle finder works in the same way as the digital angle finder, with two arms that pivots around a central point. Inside of the arms is a carefully marked measurement system displayed on a spring loaded reel. As the arms are spread apart and the angle between them increases, the tape measure-like reel inside the mechanism moves across a glass display port, stopping to display the accurate angle in degrees at any given point.
Digital level boxes
Digital level boxes are electronic levelling tools that can be used to determine plumb, level, or the exact angle of a component. These small boxes feature electronic gyroscopic technology within them, capable of determining the angle at which they are placed in relation to a horizontal plane. When the box is placed on a flat surface, it will indicate on a digital display the angle in degrees that it is sitting in relation to a level surface. It can also be held on the side of an object to determine if it is plumb. When the box is held on an angled component, the display will read the degrees in pitch in relation to the horizontal plane, useful for finding the pitch of existing components.
Mitre angle protractors
This tool is used to accurately measure internal or external mitres and angles when carrying out second fix operations. The tool consists of 2 arms that each project from a circular body. Both of the circular bodies are the same diameter, though they vary in shape. One features a raised circle in the middle that is smaller in diameter than the larger circle. The other features a hollow section in the middle, that is the same diameter as the raised section of the other. As such, the hollow piece fits over the raised piece, and the two can pivot around a perfectly central axis. The working face of both pieces are engraved to display an accurate 360-degree division of the circles. These markings, alongside 2 engraved alignment markings, are engraved in relation to the orientation of the arms. As the arms are moved to match an internal or external angle, the markers line up with the etched engravings to display either the angle of a single cut or the 2 angles required for a mitre cut. Whilst the use of these tools is not at all necessary, they can help to speed up the process and increase the efficiency of the task at hand.
Utility knives
Utility knives are manufactured in many different varieties by a wide array of companies. They range in practicality, durability, and comfort on a scale that is mostly dependent on price. Some varieties of utility knives also feature other tools within their assembly, such as bit drivers or bottle openers. When all is said and done however, they all share in common the ability to easily receive disposable utility blades. These blades similarly come in many different shapes for varying applications, such as a hooked blade for cutting carpets, or a straight blade for general cutting tasks. These blades are often double ended and can be flipped around in the knife to reveal a new sharp edge once blunted. The notches in the top of the blade lock into some mechanism or fixed point in the knife to allow for a secure fixing. Some knives feature retractable blades, with others being fixed in place.
Marking gauge
Marking gauges are a staple of a carpenter’s tool kit in terms of being able to carry out accurate marking operations. Marking gauges have been used for hundreds of years by carpenters and joiners to carry out their work with expert precision. The marking gauge features a body that is fitted over a central handle. At one end of the handle, a sharp metal rod or nail protrudes out the side of one face. The body is free to move along the length of the handle and can be tightened in place with a thumb screw or wedge – depending on the model. The ability to fix the body in place to the handle allows for a set distance from the face of the body to the point of the pin to be locked in place. With a specific distance set on the gauge, multiple accurate lines of the same distance can be transferred onto a workpiece. The marking gauge is used by registering the face of the body against the side of a workpiece, so that the marking pin is aligned where the mark is desired to be made. The face of the gauge always registers on an edge of the workpiece that is perpendicular to the working face. Once the gauge is aligned, the pin can be lowered to the surface and placed in position. By turning the handle to a slight angle, the gauge can be effectively pushed or pulled along the workpiece, with the pin always following behind. As the gauge is moved, the pin leaves a crisp and clean line on the workpiece. The body of the gauge should have even pressure applied towards the workpiece when marking, especially when marking with the direction of the grain. This is to ensure that the pin does not ride within the fibres of the grain and deviate from the required marking line. When used correctly, the layout lines left by a marking gauge are thinner and finer than those left by a pencil, allowing for increased accuracy. The scoring action of the pin also severs the surface fibres of the piece, leaving a clean edge around the desired point for cutting out. Another variety of the marking gauge is the cutting gauge. These two gauges are nearly identical, with the only difference being the cutting end. The cutting gauge features a small, sharp knife in place of the sharp pin. This knife can be used to cut deeper marks into the workpiece and form a very effective knife wall. It can also be used to clean up the last part of a cut out job with an accurate score. Marking gauges see most of their use in second fix or workshop applications. In site carpentry, they are an indispensable tool for accurately marking the locations of hinges and latches on doors.
Mortise gauge
Mortise gauges are similar in principle and construction to the marking and cutting gauges previously mentioned. The handle of the tool features a fixed pin on the face at one end. Inset in a groove up the face of the handle is another pin on a piece that is able to move up and down the length. The body of the gauge is locked in place with a thumb screw as is the case with the marking gauge. The main feature of the mortise gauge is the adjustable second pin, that can be set to any width to allow for an accurate mortise or tenon to be marked. The pins are often set to the width of a chisel and are used in conjunction with the adjustable body of the gauge to accurately mark workpieces. These gauges are most commonly used in joinery exercises, though they can be used to great effect when marking out and chopping in locks and latches in doors.
Profile/contour gauge
Profile gauges are a type of marking tool used for transferring profiles and contours from physical components onto materials. Many tasks within the scope of second fix carpentry and renovations involve neatly cutting components around other components. For straightforward scenarios such as scribing skirting boards or architrave, there are many tricks and procedures that we can employ to accurately achieve proper contour transference. In more complex scenarios, such as cutting flooring around door frames, or any number of other intricate custom scribes, transferring the moulding can be somewhat tricky. The profile gauge is a handy tool that can help to make light work of these scenarios, by accurately taking the shape of a moulding, locking it in place to be transferred to another workpiece. The tool features an array of small and thin metal or plastic splines that are held in place through friction and held captive within a larger body. As the gauge is pushed against a moulding or intricate shape, the splines move individually to match the shape of the profile. When the gauge is removed, the contour is held static through friction and can be traced onto another workpiece.
Laser level
Laser levels are a type of levelling and layout tool that are used to great effect in modern construction. For all intents and purposes, these high-tech tools are the technological evolution of all the other more primitive levelling tools. At its most basic form, the laser level emits perfectly horizontal and vertical laser lines that can be used for a variety of different layout applications. The lines are emitted from a laser beam within the housing of the level, which is most commonly stabilised by some kind of gyroscopic or free-floating mechanism. Many varieties of laser level exist, with many different purposes in mind. Larger levels are utilised in surveying and ground working operations, being used with a receiver that can identify the laser over incredible distances. These lasers are often used for setting out groundworks and working out floor build ups. Smaller levels can be used for aligning components indoors, or for registering datums around a room. The beams themselves come in a few colours, with red being the most typical. Green lasers are available and are much easier to see in bright areas. Larger layout lasers often come with an adapter that screws onto an adjustable stand, that is used to precisely adjust the height of the line. The smaller levels used internally typically feature a magnet that can be used to attach the laser to metal components.
Water levels
Water levels are an ancient levelling technology that still finds use in modern surveying and layout. Whilst they’re not necessarily as convenient as other more modern forms of levelling equipment, they possess features that the others don't. The water level features 2 containers connected together at each end of some sort of pipe. Modern water levels use plastic or rubber hoses to attach the containers together. The containers are clear plastic or glass and feature incremental markings on their faces. The two containers are held next to each other, and water is poured into them. The device is filled until the water reaches around halfway up each container. The specific marking that the water reaches is noted, and the tool is ready for use. One of the containers is aligned with a desired starting point, such as a datum line in one room. The other container is then taken to the area where a level line is required. As the second container is moved up and down, the water level in first container will rise or fall in relation to the markings. When the water level in either container lines up with the previously noted marking, both containers are perfectly level with one another. The desired mark can then be transferred onto the new surface. Whilst this process is a bit more involved than simply setting up a laser, the water level can never display an inaccurate reading, provided external factors are not negatively impacting it. Additionally, the level displayed by a water level can be taken around walls or the corners of buildings, a feature that can’t be carried out in one action by a standard spirit level or laser level. Also, the distance between the 2 containers can be incredibly long in principle, provided an adequate length of pipe can be acquired. This makes a water level a very effective tool for surveying large areas of land or carrying out large scale layout operations. Water levels are not commonly used in residential construction, but knowing about them and the opportunities that they offer can help in certain situations.
Plumb bob
Plumb bobs have existed in some form or another for thousands of years, taking advantage of the natural downwards pull of the earth to aid us in constructing tall, upright buildings. The principle of a plumb bob is very simple: a weight (the plumb bob) is applied to the end of a string, with the other end of the string being held or fixed in place on a surface. Once the string is steadied from swinging and is hanging still under the downwards force of the heavy plumb bob, the string displays a perfectly straight and plumb line. This line can be used as a registration point to plumb up components and visibly display any deviations in a workpiece. Traditionally, as the name suggests, the plumb bob was made of lead. In modern times, steel constructions are more common due to improvements in health and safety. The bottom of the plumb bob is typically tapered to a dull point. This point is useful for alignment with other intersecting lines during levelling procedures.