Carpentry Tips & Tricks
Before we begin to look specifically at how the different carpentry tasks are carried out, we’ll take a moment in this following section to focus on some of the tips and tricks that are going to help us on our journey. This is a compilation of as many of the often-overlooked techniques, thought processes, procedures, tips, tricks, and time savers that are out there as could be collected. The idea for this section was the original inspiration for the creation of this book, as it seems that when talking to older carpenters that completed more traditional apprenticeships, they’re always full of little tips and tricks. I find the collection of this knowledge over time in an individual to be a good reflection of the quality and mastery of a tradesman. Unfortunately, due to the oral tradition of these classical apprenticeships, as well as the introduction of more modern building techniques and tools, a lot of the information on traditional carpentry is becoming lost to time, another inspiration for the creation of this publication. Without further ado, here is a selection of carpentry related tips and tricks.
Cutting Stations
Cutting stations/work areas are allocated areas on site where the cutting of timber is carried out. In order to be efficient whilst we work, it's important to organise our workspace to allow for increased productivity. Preparing all of the required tools in one space before we start gives us time to physically mentally organise ourselves. When working on structural components, we might opt for a large open space outside where we’re free to swing long timbers. The timbers are sat on benches near to a chop saw or circular saw to allow for ease of cutting.
In second fix operations that are typically more drawn out, a cutting station/area may comprise of many smaller components. A larger space is always better in these scenarios to allow for ease of movement around the area. A mitre saw on a stand is typically central to these stations, as this is where most of the trims and moulding are cut. Personally, I like to set up a table made from benches and a sheet of plywood in close proximity to the saw to make an effective storage area for tools. I place all the toolboxes under the table out of the way; with all the tools I'm using placed on the table. Having a station like this setup is useful to stay organised, especially with all the small bits associated with second fix operations, such as ironmongery, router bits, driver bits and drills - nothing gets lost this way. Next to the mitre saw, I place a large tub for rubbish, making it easy to immediately throw any offcuts away to keep the area tidy. Another set of benches may also be useful here depending on the tasks at hand for cutting down doors or ripping sheet materials.
There is no right and wrong way to lay it out but being organised and setting ourselves up for success before jumping into a task is certainly a good approach.
Hammering the ends of nails to prevent splitting
When installing any fixings close to the end of thin timbers like batten, there is a high chance of the timber splitting and compromising the effectiveness of the fixing. When nailing a timber towards its end, there is a trick we can employ to help reduce the chance of the timber splitting. When looking at the anatomy of a screw or nail, we can see that they are tapered to a point at their ends. This point, or wedge, literally splits its way through the timber, causing the unsupported and weak grain at the end of the timber to split apart. If we strike the point of a nail with our hammer to blunt the point, when the nail is driven into the end of the wood, the fibres are pushed through the timber as opposed to splitting out the way of the point. More often than not, this prevents the end of the timber from splitting.
Reversing screws to prevent splitting
Similarly to the previous point, if screws are installed towards the end of thin timber like batten, they also have a high chance of splitting the grain apart. To prevent this, we could always drill a pilot hole to provide clearance for the shank of the screw as it is driven in. This however requires the use of another drill with an appropriately sized bit. Another method that requires no extra tools involves driving the screw partially into the timber in reverse. The reversed direction of the spinning screw acts as a blunt drill bit. This process is fast and provides enough clearance for the screw to not split the end grain of the timber. Useful for a one off or in a pinch.
Pulling components together
Often when framing with larger timber components, there are scenarios where two timbers meet and need to be flush with each other. As each length of timber has its own characteristics with varying degrees of bow, twist, cup etc, sometimes these timbers are out of alignment with one another. If the timbers are small or the characteristics are less severe, they’re easy to pull together by hand alone. In many cases they can be manipulated by simply pulling or pushing, or by standing on them. In scenarios where a lot of force is required, and must also be held in alignment whilst fixing, a simple trick can be employed using leverage. Install a screw or nail almost flush into the timber that needs to be pulled and use a hammer to lever it into alignment with the other timber. This leverage makes it much easier to hold the timbers in alignment whilst another fixing is installed to keep them together.
Using a finger or a tape measure as a guide
Often when carrying out smaller first or second fix operations, we need to make marks on boards parallel to one of the edges. Whether it's marking 10mm to cut off the end of a board or marking a rip line down the centre of a length of timber, these instances occur frequently. Making these marks through the use of squares or rules are always a textbook go-to, though this is not always the most efficient method. Pulling out the square to mark these lines every single time is unnecessary, especially when the mark is an approximate guide. Instead, we can use a finger or a tape measure as a rip guide in combination with a pencil or knife to make a mark on a board or sheet of material. By holding the pencil between our index finger and thumb at a set distance on a board, we can register our hand position using our middle finger. By tensing our hand, we can lock this registration point in place and move our hand up and down the length to create a perfectly parallel line in relation to the edge of the board. With a little practice this can be done effortlessly when required. For larger rips, we can use the same principle, pitching our pencil against the end of the tape measure. We can pull out the tape to the desired length and pinch it in place with our finger. We can register the tape on the edge of the board using our hand and slide this mark up and down the sheet.
String line and 3 blocks
Ensuring that our installed components are straight is one of the key criteria for most carpentry tasks. In these scenarios, regardless of the specific task at hand, the desired outcome is typically for the component to be flat and straight. This is true for floor systems, walls, roof planes, fascia lines, boxing's etc. Whilst some of these components can be straightened by eye, such as fascia lines for example, some components are harder to sight down. In these instances, there is a simple trick that we can use to straighten the workpieces, through the use of a string line and some timber offcuts.
The first step in this procedure is to ensure that the two very outside edges of the workpiece are located in the correct position in terms of plumb/level/flat - whatever the desired criteria is. We can then pull a string line tight between these two correct points. From a length of batten or timber, we can cut three small blocks. We can use any material here really, provided that the three blocks are the same thickness in at least one dimension. Using two of the blocks, we can place one at each end of the workpiece, under the string line to make it stand off from the components at a set thickness. This ensures that the middle of the string line will not be distorted by any discrepancies in the middle of the workpiece. At desired intervals, we can now slide the third block up to the line to check the relation of the workpiece to a known correct line. If the block slides perfectly under the line, just kissing it, we know that at this point on the workpiece, the component is flat in relation to the two correct ends. If the block hits the line, then the component is higher than the two correct points. The same is true if the block slides under the line too much, with the component needing to be brought outwards.
Bisecting angles
In certain scenarios during carpentry tasks, such as installing mouldings like skirting boards, irregular angles may occur at which the moulding is to be cut. This is especially true around bay windows, or irregular returns around walls. Whilst there are many specialty tools out there that can help us to determine the exact angle of these returns, there are also methods of calculating these angles with basic hand tools. Here we shall look at bisecting angles by hand to produce the correct mitre for skirting boards. This method works for both internal and external corners. Taking an offcut of skirting or timber, place it against the wall at the intersection of the corner. Strike a mark on the floor against the parallel edge of the timber. Repeat this step on the other section of the wall that forms the corner. Where the two lines meet on the floor, connect this point to the very corner of the intersecting walls. The resulting drawn angle is exactly half the total angle of the wall and displays the correct mitre for the moulding. A bevel can then be set to this angle and taken to the mitre saw.
Scribing components
Often during the installation of fitted components such as mouldings or cladding, the materials must be installed with tight tolerances against or in close proximity to irregularly shaped surfaces. Wavy plaster, uneven flooring, and textured masonry are all relatively common occurrences that can interfere with the finish of the materials components that are being installed. To overcome the issues relating to the existing surfaces, we must scribe our components to match the profile, allowing it to sit correctly and meet its other intended criteria. There are a handful of different methods that can be used to transfer the profile onto our workpiece, which we will look at here.
The first step in all of these methods is to locate our material in the correct position to accurately transfer the marks. Typically, this is butted as tight as possible into the surface whilst still remaining true – plumb, level, straight etc. If the gaps that are present are relatively small, we can run a pencil along the surface to transfer the profile of the uneven surface onto the workpiece. A carpenter's pencil on edge provides slightly more depth here. For larger gaps, spacers can be used behind the pencil to create additional depth. The correct size spacer should have the pencil line just kiss the edge of the material at the point where the gap is the largest. A washer can also be used here to transfer the profile. A compass can also be set in this scenario to the largest distance.
The above instances are useful when scribing standalone components into existing surfaces. That being said, when fitting components such as flooring or cladding, we often find ourselves having to accurately scribe these materials whilst simultaneously maintaining the correct alignment in relation to the other components. An example of this is shown in the diagram, where the last row of flooring must be cut down, but also scribed to meet the irregular profile of the wall. To overcome this issue, we can use a simple trick. Lay a length of flooring directly on top of the penultimate row that has already been installed. Using an offcut of the same flooring, follow the contour of the wall whilst tracing the adjacent edge onto the flooring with a pencil. The resulting line will perfectly match the contour of the wall whilst also aligning correctly with the existing rows of flooring. This same principle can be used to scribe the last row of cladding, as well as for scribing architraves - this we’ll look at specifically later on in the book.
Datum lines
During the structural carcassing and first fix procedures of a build, a datum can help to increase the accuracy of components that are being installed. These work well during extensions and renovation procedures to aid in matching the new components to the existing. To create a datum line, use a laser level or spirit level to establish a line around the building at a consistent height. A common height is 1m off of the finished floor. The line will help to establish a level plate height as well as a reference point for the screed.
Makeshift compass
When marking circles or arcs on components, the typical approach would be to use a compass. That being said, we don't always have a compass to hand, or possibly not one large enough for the task we’re undertaking. Here are a few solutions for makeshift compasses that can be employed in a variety of scenarios. Firstly, using a piece of cardboard, poke a nail through one edge and align this with the centre of the arc of the circle. Using a tape measure or ruler, measure away from this central point the radius of the circle. By poking a pencil through this point, we can rotate the pencil at a fixed distance around the central point. This principle can be applied to any rigid material, such as a batten with a screw and hole in it. Alternatively, we can utilise the tape measure itself as the compass. Insert a nail or screw into the centre point of the circle we are drawing. Extend the blade of the tape measure to the radius of the circle and lock it into place. Hook the body/blade intersection of the tape into the nail. By holding a pencil into the hook of the blade and spinning the tape around the central point, we can quickly mark a circle or arc.
Preserving markings
When pencil marks or chalk lines are made in exterior scenarios, they are susceptible to the weather, and as such can be washed away in the rain. Marks that matter, that are crucial for layout and future references can be preserved from the external elements by spraying them with hairspray. Hairspray in essence is just a liquid plastic in spray form and will coat any important marks in a thin clear layer that is waterproof. Specialist line preserving spray can be purchased from some suppliers, though for all intents and purposes it’s the same as hairspray, but more expensive.
Diagonal tape measure fractions
Often there are times during layout procedures where we must divide a component up evenly, typically halves, thirds, or quarters. A common scenario is the layout of a rafter, in which the bird’s mouth is marked out as ⅓ of the total width of the board. Taking a typical 6”x2” rafter timber, laying out this ⅓ division can be difficult using a tape measure conventionally, as 145mm / 5 ¾” is not easily divisible by 3. Instead of pulling out a calculator, or unnecessarily attempting the calculation in the old grey, simply arc the blade of the tape until a number divisible by 3 - i.e. 6, is lined up with the edge. Now using the tape is incredibly easy to divide by 3, as we have 3 even divisions of 6 on the tape. This principle can be transferred to many different applications, such as dividing odd sized components in half.
Waxing screws
A trick that has always stuck with me in terms of the headspace that it occupies was mentioned by one of my college tutors when I was 19. The tutor in question was an old school carpenter, and so a lot of the methodology and approaches that he taught were more in tune with the old school way of doing things - not a bad thing by any means. One day when talking about doors and how to hang them, he mentioned that back in the day when screws were used far less commonly than they are nowadays, a carpenter would always carry a little container of beeswax around with them. He mentioned that with the infrequency of which he used screws, typically only for hanging doors or fitting other ironmongery, he would always take the time to wax the screw before driving it in. Granted, in a time before battery powered drills when screws were driven by hand, lubricating it with wax would certainly help to drive it in more easily. But what he mentioned next about ensuring that the next person to come along after you would have just as much ease pulling the screw out as when it went in really shifted my perspective on the trades. The small task of waxing a screw before driving it was done with the consideration of someone 20 years down the line. Always think about the next man - this will lead to pride in one's work.
Lubricating tools
Almost to give credence to the lesson that my old tutor taught me, another tutor of a similar age would always carry a small piece of candle wax in his pocket for waxing tools. Ensuring that the blade of a saw and the sole of a plane are always lubricated with wax will increase the effectiveness and ease of use of these tools. Therefore, I would recommend always keeping a candle or a bottle of oil in one's tool kit. Oiling tools also produces the benefit of keeping them rust free, and so they should fairly often be wiped down with oil on all bare metal surfaces.
Using deadmen or props
A timber prop, often colloquially known as a deadman, is a support made of timber - ordinarily 2x1” batten - that helps to support sheet materials during the installation process. By wedging the prop between the sheet material on the ceiling and the floor, the installation of the sheet materials becomes far less laborious and eliminates the need to struggle to fix the sheet and support its weight at the same time. Deadmen are usually used during the installation of plasterboard for ceiling systems, though the concept can be transferred to other situations. The prop consists of a long member, with a short member nailed or screwed into one end of it, at the middle of the shorter member. This creates a large “T” shape prop, with the top of the “T” contacting and supporting the board on the ceiling. The longer member should be cut to a length so that the total distance from the top to the bottom of the prop is about an inch longer than the distance from the floor to the underside of the ceiling joists. This will allow for the prop to be wedged into place and pulled tight when its use is desired.
Care should be taken when using props like this, and one should always keep their wits about them during use - their main purpose being to temporarily bear the weight of the board whilst it is fastened in place. Some commercial adaptations of this idea exist in the form of adjustable pump-up props - a more convenient solution to the load bearing problem at hand if tacking is a common workplace activity.
Pythagorean theorem - a2 + b2 = c2
Formulated thousands of years ago by Pythagoras, this formula can be used in numerous methods to help us achieve precision within construction. At its simplest, this formula displays the relationship of the different lengths within a right-angled triangle. With most corners of buildings typically being square, as well as rafters being right angled triangles on plan, this formula can be used to calculate lengths and square up components. “a” and “b” refer to two sides of the right-angled triangle, with “c” always representing the hypotenuse of the triangle, or the length opposite the right angle of the triangle. In terms of geometric roofing, the hypotenuse of the right-angled triangle is the length of the rafters. As such, this formula can be used in order to calculate geometric lengths. It can also be applied in a similar method to the 3,4,5 - as that method is a derivation of this formula, with 3² + 4² = 5², or 9+16=25.
The 3:4:5 ratio for squaring components
As we’ve already looked at, there are a lot of components that are intended to be square within construction both in terms of specification as well as professionalism. It’s an important descriptor that applies to many aspects of construction - but how do we check components for being square? By using the simple ratio of 3:4:5 (in accordance with the Pythagorean theorem) we can check any component to ensure it’s square. The ratio of 3:4:5 describes the lengths of the three sides that make up a right-angled triangle. If the length of a right-angled triangle is 3x, with the height being 4x, then the hypotenuse (longest side) of the triangle must be 5x. We can use this ratio therefore in many different applications, scaling it up or down, or using any form of measurement that we wish to help aid us in our pursuit for checking components are square. For example, we can check the corner of the wall plates on a roof by marking 3 metres in one direction, 4 metres in the other, and then checking the distance in between the 2 marks. If the corner of the roof is square, then the distance between the 2 marks should be 5 metres.
For much larger applications, such as ground works and setting out large foundations, we could mark out 30 feet by 40 feet and ensure the distance between the 2 was 50 feet. Even larger than that we could choose 30 metres by 40 metres, with a distance of 50 metres. Depending on the application we might also need to scale the ratio up to 6:8:10. The bigger the measurements we choose in relation to the size of the workpiece, the more accurate we can be. In short, we can use any scale of measurement to carry out this operation, as long as the ratio always remains 3:4:5.
Rod with nail to get things square
A simple trick to be able to easily check that structural openings are square is to use a batten with a nail through one end as shown in the diagram. Especially when forming roof lights or stair openings, particularly when working alone, this trick can make the process much easier than struggling with a tape. By definition, for these openings to be square, or rectangular in shape, the distance between the two sets of opposing corners must be the same. Checking this distance with a tape measure can be tricky when working alone and isn't 100% accurate even with another person to help hold the tape. By driving a nail through the end of an appropriately sized batten, one can easily register the nail into a corner of the opening, with the batten not needing to be supported, as it sits on top of the timbers. A tick can then be marked on the batten at the intersection of the opposing corner. The batten can then be spun into the next corner to check the diagonal length and help to square up the opening. It's important to remember that any difference between the 2 tick marks on the batten displays twice the actual discrepancy of the opening. To rectify the mistake, the timbers need only to be moved half as much of the displayed distance to bring it into square.
Kiting
This quick visual process refers to eyeing two objects in parallel with each other through the use of perspective. The method is used primarily for ensuring that the two jambs of a door lining are parallel to each other (an important criteria for the door to fit flush to the front of the lining), though the principle can be transferred to other scenarios where applicable. Despite our best efforts during the installation of a door lining, it's not always the case that both jambs are perfectly aligned with each other. This can be due to inaccuracy in the levelling process, as well as discrepancies in the lengths of timber themselves. To ensure that both jambs are aligned with each other, we can “kite” the lining. Position one's eye level so that you’re looking through the door opening with as little light shining through as possible. Visually, this brings both vertical edges next to each other, at which point we can observe the gap between them. As we move our head from side to side to change the perspective, the two jambs should just kiss each other along the full height of the lining, with no variations in the gap between them. Provided that the hinge side of the lining is plumb, then any adjustments should be made to the opposite jamb. Even if the whole lining is leaning slightly in one direction for whatever reason, as long as the jambs are in line with one another, the door will shut correctly in the lining.
This same process of kiting by forcing a perspective can be applied to any number of plumb components, provided there are at least two to reference off of. If two plumb components ever don't align with one another in this method, one of them isn't actually plumb.
Leverage and fulcrums
Leverage and fulcrums play an important part in engineering and other physical applications. With a little understanding, we can maximise the efficiency of fulcrums in our favour for specific applications.
First, we will start with a very basic explanation. Here we see a pivot point, with a lever on top of it. The lever is centralised on the pivot, meaning that an even upwards force on one end is created by an even downwards force on the other. By shifting the position of the lever in relation to the pivot point, we can increase or decrease the force that is output in relation to the force that is input. Here we see the majority of the lever is past pivot point. When downwards force is applied to this lever, the upwards force that is output is greatly increased.
With that principle in mind, imagine the same scenario in the physical world. Imagine we’re trying to remove existing floorboards during a renovation procedure. The lever is a length of CLS timber, or a long wrecking bar. The pivot point is the existing joists, or an offcut of timber. If the pivot point is closer to us than the floorboards, or centralised, we’re going to have to work harder and put in more downward force to pry up the floorboards. In the interest of making the process easier, and reducing the risk of strain to us, we can place the pivot as close to the end of the lever as possible, so that we can maximise the force that is output in comparison to the force we’re putting in.
This principle can be applied to any application where leverage is required for prying, such as moving components. As long as the principle is understood, the applications are unlimited.
Partially setting nail gun nails
Nail guns are a fantastic tool for the rapid installation of nails into timber components. These powerful tools are capable of setting nails deep into timber components. That being said, sometimes we need to use a nail gun to partially set a nail, so that it can be removed later. There is a risk associated with this trick, which varies depending on the model of the nail gun and so consider one's own abilities and comfortability with the tool before trying it.
For most models of nail gun, the tip of the gun must be depressed before the trigger will actuate. This is usually achieved by pushing the tip into the surface of the timber component. In this instance, if we manually depress the tip of the gun, the trigger will actuate and fire the nail wherever we’re aiming. This in itself - whilst fun - is dangerous. However, if the tip of the gun is held a short distance away from the timber surface, at an appropriate angle, the nail will fire out of the gun when the trigger is pulled, entering only partially into the timber components. There are a handful of uses for this trick.
Transferring marks with crayons or drywall
In some instances when sheathing surfaces with materials such as drywall or plasterboard, there are other components that disrupt the flat nature of the surface – these of which must be given relief in the back of the surface material. Examples of these components include electrical boxes, bolts or bolt heads, as well as other ironmongery such as straps. These components must be accounted for when installing the sheathing, by either notching a hole all the way through the material for them, or by hollowing out the back of the material to receive them. In either instance, to achieve a quality finish and meet the desired criteria we must accurately mark these components onto the sheathing material. We could use a tape measure to transfer the location onto the sheathing material, though this takes time, and mistakes can occur. Instead, we can apply crayon wax or plasterboard dust to the components to essentially turn them into a static marker. We can then hold our sheathing material onto the surface in the correct orientation and give it a small tap or wiggle. This will transfer the exact location of the protruding components onto the back surface of our sheathing material, which can then be accurately cut out.
Sacrificial timber
When tapping together finished components, or when applying large amounts of force to carcassing or first fix components, we can use a sacrificial timber offcut to act as a buffer for our hammer. Instead of beating the finished components to pieces, splintering the wood and leaving deep depressions in the surface, we can use a small block to absorb the hammer blows instead, protecting the surface of the components.