Gates
What is a gate?
Gates are a common component installed as a part of the exterior finish of a residence, and come in many styles for use in different applications. For the most part, the primary purpose of a gate is privacy - keeping things and people in/out of a residence. They can also help to obscure views into the property from the street. Smaller door sized gates are commonly installed down the side of houses or bungalows, restricting access from the front of the property to the garden. These gates are locked from the garden side of the property, in theory preventing strangers from walking in off the street. Gates of this kind also help to keep young children and animals inside the garden, acting as an opening as a part of a larger encompassing fence system. Larger decorative gates, often hung in pairs, can commonly be seen at the front of properties in most places throughout th[1] e world. These decorative pieces aren't necessarily intended for privacy in the same way that side gates are, but can be closed from the inside for security. This being said, electrical gates can be wired up to the house and controlled from within, preventing people or vehicles from easily entering the property. Large double gates are also often used to prevent entry from rear parking spaces, a feature that can be commonly seen in properties with access at the rear.
Lockable gates such as this prevent strangers from stealing a parking space, as well as protecting a parked car.
Gates of all sizes can be purchased off of the shelf from many suppliers. Specialist companies can also create joinery grade gates from hardwoods to specific sizes in factories and ship them to a destination to be installed, though this can be costly. Alternatively, many basic styles of gates can be created on site by carpenters, using standard materials from the merchants. Here we shall look at some of the most common styles of bespoke gates and how they are assembled.
What are the criteria for the installation of a gate?
For all intents and purposes, gates are installed in the same manner that interior doors are, though in most instances the tolerances are not as strict. Larger margins are required to accommodate the drastic timber movement that occurs in timber during exposure. Additionally, considerations about the material used itself, as well as how the gates are finished in terms of weather proofing are also at the forefront of the process. This being said, all of the basic criteria are the same - even margins, plumb/level installation, effective door stop, etc. Due to the larger margins required, chopping in the hinges and undershooti[1] ng the leading edge are not a part of the process of hanging a gate.
How are gates installed?
Hung on hinges - 6 and 9 again with a central hinge maybe
Different style of hinges too - stable door hinges with large margins are very common
Ironmongery fitted in accordance with regular internal ironmongery. High quality materials such as coated stainless steel are used in external scenarios to prevent corrosion over time.
No chopping out hinges makes the installation very easy and quick
How are the different styles of bespoke gate assembled?
Diagonal brace load dispersion
External gates of any variety feature 1 or more diagonal braces. Unlike an internal door that is assembled to a precise tolerance with the use of refined joinery techniques, external gates are typically assembled from a frame that is cladded with some type of timber, often nailed or screwed together. Over time, especially in the harsh outdoor environment, unbraced gates are very likely to drop on the opposite side to the hinges. As such, gates often feature diagonal braces. These braces provide additional fixing points for the cladding, but more importantly distribute the weight of the gate more evenly towards the hinges. The further away from the hinges and stable mounting post that we travel, the greater the effects of gravity act upon the unsupported leading edge of the gate. By installing diagonal bracing underneath the crossrails, the weight at the far edge of the gate is supported more effectively by the hinges of the gate. It's important to take into consideration the direction of the diagonal bracing when installing or making a gate, as this feature can make or break a proper installation.
Calculating an arc
Aesthetically, gates can often feature a rounded or arched top profile on them. In regular openings, the exact radius of this arc is neither here nor there, and any off the shelf profile will suffice provided the width is correct. In some instances, gates are fitted within a masonry opening that features a brick arch above it. In these instances, to achieve the desired outcome, the arc radius of the gate should match that of the masonry. When making or modifying an existing gate to match this profile, working out the exact angle is very easy. The first step is to take some measurement off of the masonry arc. Measure the width of the opening. Using a rod a bit longer than the width, make a halfway mark in the opening. Now take a measurement from the top of the underside of the arc to the centre point where the arc terminates and meets the vertical masonry. This is enough to calculate the arc of the masonry. Now all we need to do is make adjustments to our measurements to account for the gate. Determine the width of the gate, and subtract this from the width of the opening. Divide this number in half, giving us the margin we will end up with down each side of the gate. This is the margin we want to follow around the arc between the gate and the masonry. Measure down from the top of the gate the distance from the underside of arc to the termination point, less the margin measurement. Draw a square line across the gate at this point, this is the termination point of the arc on the gate. Mark the centre of the top of the gate. This is the very pinnacle of the arc. Draw a line from the pinnacle to one of the termination points. Draw another line off of this line, square towards the centre of the gate at the termination point. Where this line intersects the centerline of the gate, is the complete opposite side of the circle that forms part of the arc. To swing the arc, mark the halfway point between the two extreme ends, and swing from this point between the pinnacle and termination points. We can use a string, or tape measurement, or custom rod.
Fully framed cladded
This style sees a fully framed gate that is cladded after the fact. This style is very sturdy and is very effective, though it requires more materials than the other styles. Pressure treated 4x2 works well in this instance, though this can be scaled up or down depending on the size of the gate. Two side rails receive into upper and lower rails. A central rail fits in between the two outer rails. The diagonal braces are then installed in between these sections. The cladding is then screwed or nailed on top the outside of the gate. Very quick and easy to make custom gates.
Z shaped cladded
This style is similar to the last one, with the difference being the lack of a full outer frame. In these instances, the main stability of the gate comes from the cladding, as opposed to a stable outer frame. This obviously produces a less stable variety of gate, though the cost is relatively low to produce them. It also reduces the overall weight of the gate, making the effects of the downwards forces negligible.
Picket style
Typically used for low gates and fences. Features a frame with spaced vertical cladding installed. The cladding lengths often have a rounded top for aesthetics.