Airing Cupboards
Whilst not commonly implemented in modern residential properties, hot water cylinders were and still are present in many typical UK homes. Before the introduction of modern combi boiler technology, conventional boilers heated and stored hot water in insulated cylinders. As these cylinders are unsightly, and rarely require access, they were commonly installed in purpose built cupboards. Framed from floor to ceiling, these cupboards provide ample space for the installation of hot water cylinders, and then some. To maximise the utility of the space within these cupboards, as well as taking advantage of the increased temperature within, slatted shelves were installed above the cylinder for the storage of clean laundry, typically towels and bed sheets. In modern homes, combi boilers are capable of providing hot water on demand, heating the water directly from a mains feed to supply the central heating and hot water appliances. These boilers may still be installed within airing cupboards to keep them out of sight, though within the requirement of a hot water cylinder in modern homes, airing cupboards are no longer a necessity. That being said, a purpose building cupboard integrated into the layout of house specifically for the storage of clean laundry is very convenient.
An airing cupboard is a small partitioned area within a home that is primarily intended for the storage of bedsheets and towels. These small cupboards are formed during the first fix process, with bespoke slatted shelves being installed during the second fix stage. In older houses, it's not uncommon for large hot water tanks to be installed in the bottom of these cupboards, with slatted shelves fitted above them. In modern construction, airing cupboards are often installed in or near bathrooms, typically upstairs in houses, and provide extra laundry storage for the homeowners. Laundry baskets are also commonly found inside airing cupboards, as they provide a convenient space out of the way to store dirty laundry before washing. The width of the cupboard is never much more than the width of a door, with the lining typically touching both sides of the opening.
The slatted shelves in combination with the typically warmer air inside the cupboard promote effective dry air flow, ensuring that fabrics stored in the cupboard remain dry. When the cupboard is formed, doors can be fitted to hide the cupboard from view. A single door can be used, though smaller width double doors are also very common. The doors themselves rarely feature a proper latch and handle mechanism, with roller catches and small knobs being more typical. With the airflow of the cupboard being the primary intention of its purpose, special slatted louvre doors are often installed, allowing continuous airflow through the cupboard even when closed.
What is an airing cupboard?
How are airing cupboards formed?
In terms of constructing an airing cupboard from start to finish, we have already covered the majority of the process in one way or another. Studwork partitions are typically used to form the cupboard, with regular plasterboard being installed on the inside and out. A lining is installed in the opening to accommodate the doors after plastering. Depending on the width of the cupboard, a custom sized lining may be required. Once the plastering has taken place, the door/s can be hung inside the lining, with the appropriate ironmongery being installed. The final step then is to make and install the slatted shelves.
These shelves are a custom component, and are made on site to accommodate the specific width of the airing cupboard at hand. They are formed from planned 2”x1” batten, and are shaped to create an aesthetic appearance. After installation, they may or may not be painted. The shelves themselves sit on supporting battens fixed to the wall either side of the cupboard, and are not fixed in place to allow them to be removed easily.
To begin, we mark out the vertical locations for the shelves. Depending on the height of the overall cupboard, the locations for the height of the shelves can vary. In new build houses, the top shelf must not be higher than 1.5 metres off of the ground for accessibility purposes. Additionally, shelves must be installed with a minimum of 300mm between them. When combined with a hot water cylinder installed in the cupboard, these factors may only allow for 2 shelves in the cupboard, a layout that can be commonly seen in many homes built in the last 30 or so years. When fitting cupboards as part of a renovation, the rules are more relaxed, and shelves can be installed upon the request of the client. 5 shelves installed in the cupboard split evenly in the total height allows for maximum storage efficiency.
With the layout decided upon, we can take measurements for the creation of the shelves. Take a measurement of both the width and the depth of the inside of the cupboard, checking at the top, bottom, and middle to ensure the width is approximately the same all the way up. When cutting the slats and rails, we should allow around 10mm less than the width and depth of the cupboard respectively. To calculate the amount of rails, simply multiply the amount of shelves by 4. Each shelf features 2 rails, and is supported on another 2 fixed to the wall. Begin by cutting all of the rails required. Each rail features an angled cut on the front end, proving an aesthetic look. The exact angle isn’t specified. That being said, somewhere around 60 degrees is a good choice, as it's not too sharp of a point, but not too upright. This cut can be made to form a point, or can be made halfway down the edge of the material to create a different aesthetic. Cut all of the required rails with this angle on at the exact same size.
Once the rails are cut, we can work out the required amount of slats. Using a small offcut of the material, we can mark out the top of a rail to determine the amount of slats. Starting from the front of the rail, place the offcut flat on the rail. Mark this point, then turn the offcut on edge aligned with the mark, and make another. Continue this pattern all the way to the end of the rail. We can either cut the rail off so that it finishes on a whole slat, or adjust the spacings to accommodate a full layout. If the rails project only a short space past the last slat then we can just leave it. Calculate the amount of slats by multiplying this layout by the amount of shelves. Cut all the slats to length. With all of the components cut to length, we can finish them all in turn.
This is the most time consuming part of the overall process, but leaves a fantastic interior finish. Using a hand plane, we take the sharp edge off of every edge of every piece, 1 or 2 passes per side on a 45 degree angle is enough. Then we use 120 grit sandpaper to smooth over the ends of each piece. With every piece done, we can assemble the shelves. Use a small nails or a brad nailer to fix the slats to the tops of the rails, using 2 nails per slat per rail. Make sure the nails go directly down, and that they don't come out of the side of the rail. Ensure that the rails are perpendicular to the slats as they are nailed on, to keep everything square. Ensure the spacings are even between the slats as they are nailed together. If we’re doing multiple airing cupboards in flats or whatever, a quick jig can be made to speed up the process of assembly by aiding with alignment.
With the shelves assembled, we can come back to the cupboard and attach the rails to the walls. Using a small level to ensure they stay perfectly horizontal, we can use fixings and adhesive to attach the rails to the wall. With the rails in place, the shelves can simply be dropped into place.