Within modern construction, many of the finished fitted components that we assemble, as well as many flat packed items of furniture are made of veneered or laminated composite materials. For the most part, we’ll all be familiar with the sight of melamine coated chipboard, with items such as bookcases, drawers, kitchen cupboards etc. being made from this material. This is largely due to its relative strength and durability in combination with its low production cost and stable nature. Whilst there exist many specialist companies that will install fitted components made from these materials, the ability for anyone to order machined panels to size enables us to easily create any desired fitted component. Whilst the finished aspect of these pieces can seem intimidating, assembling made to measure panels into units or shelves is so easy provided our measurements were accurate.

Here we shall look at the assembly methods of some custom pieces, and how we can accurately measure the materials to be cut for us.  

Fitted wardrobes

Fitted wardrobes are a fantastic piece of furniture that can scream luxury even though the relative installation cost is low. By utilising a part of a room to feature fitted wardrobes, the flow of travel is positively altered. This effect is amplified when a space is allowed for a fitted component like this during the construction process - if the budget allows. Due to the flexibility of the materials we use, any specific arrangement of shelves, drawers, and doors can be created. These units can also be installed to accommodate sloped ceilings, or irregular shaped walls. In the coming variations the diagrams will depict assemblies made from 18mm/¾” melamine board, though the general principles apply to any material.

For a row of wardrobes that feature pairs, the individual units can be made and placed into location, fixed together after the fact. This reduces the overall weight of the total assembly, making it possible to make the unit in the centre of the room and slide it into place. Larger assemblies may have to be built in situ. This method is similar to the installation of kitchen runs, where the individual units sit side by side. The double thickness of the material butted together allows for the double doors to be installed nex[1] t to each other. In this method we can put as many fixings as we desire through the sides of the units, as they'll be covered when the units are butted together.

Due to the custom nature of these units we’re not restricted to standard sizes. To calculate the width of each unit, take the overall width of the desired installation location. To allow room to fit these units, and allow the doors to open fully without hitting the wall, a gap between the ends of the units and the wall is left, covered later by an infill piece. 50mm is a comfortable tolerance for this gap. Take our tot[2] al width and subtract twice the tolerance - 100mm. Divide the remainder by the amount of units/the amount of doors, depending on the arrangement. This gives us the overall size of each unit, assuming they are all the same size. That being said, any arrangement of different widths can be decided upon here.

The actual construction of the units sees two full height panels that encompass the inner shelves. This means that the shelf width in relation to the overall width of the unit is unit width less 36mm - twice the thickness of the 18mm end panels in this instance. This allows us to calculate the width of the shelving panels. The end panels sit directly upon the floor, but shy of the ceiling to allow for any d[3] iscrepancies in the height of the room, either through the floor or ceiling running out of level. If we allow the same margin from the very top of the unfinished unit to the ceiling we can scribe in an equal sized infill piece around the top as well as the sides - keeping an even aesthetic finish. The very top panel of the unit is the width of the unit, as it sits directly atop the two end panels. Therefore, the height of the end panels is the distances from the floor to the ceiling, less the 50mm infill gap, and the 18mm top panel. That's how to measure all of the individual panels for the single units.

A base frame can be made from 3”x2” CLS to stabilise the unit and elevate the very bottom shelf of the unit off of the floor. It also provides an adequate surface to fix the plinth piece to. If the doors overlay the plinth, then the plinth must be installed flush with the front of the end panels. This would mean that the base frame must be kept back 18mm from the front of the end panels when installe[4] d. If the doors are fitted within the infill pieces and plinth, then the frame can be fitted flush with the front of the end panels. The end panels can be screwed to the frame from the outside in. The top panel is screwed into the end panels through the top.

The shelves can be fitted in between the end panels in a number of different combinations. They can simply be screwed into place through the end panels. Alternatively, dowels, pegs, or tightening fixings can be used. For lightweight applications this is fine, though any load at all applied to the top of the shelf puts pressure on the chipboard and can easily force the fixings straight through the top of the shelf. This is the aesthetic look that is often desired though. Alternatively, we could install shelf clips into the side of the end panels, though again overloading the shelf puts extreme pressure on the hole in the end panel and can tear out the bracket.

For heavier duty shelves, supporting rails can be installed - similar to airing cupboards. The rails can be fixed in place through the side of the end panels and allow the shelf to sit with a full bearing on the rails. For extra wide shelves, a vertical panel can be installed between them, giving ad[5] ditional vertical support up the centre of the unit. Alternatively, a cross rail can be installed between the two side rails to better support the shelf at its midspan. This solid timber allows a positive connection for clothes rails that are prone to flexing over time and damaging the chipboard when overloaded.

The units often feature a back panel that closes off the back of the unit. This panel is typically cut from a thin 6mm hardboard that is faced with melamine on one side. The panel is cut to the total width and height of the unit, less a few millimetres for a tolerance, and is fixed to the back of the unit with screws or small tacks. The panel can be cut into sections for easier installation and tran[6] sportation, if the joint lands behind a horizontal shelf. The unit can be fixed to the wall via brackets installed on the top of the unit, and through the bottom frame - anchoring it securely in place.

Once the units are installed in place they can be screwed together and have the door fitted. If the units feature supporting rails then a positive timber connection can be made by screwing the units together through these rails. The doors can be fitted and adjusted via the hinges to create an even margin between themselves. The door widths are as follows. For a single door on a unit, the width of the door is the width of the unit less 3mm each side for a margin - a total of 6mm. For double doors fitted on a single unit, each door is the width of the unit, less 9mm for 3 x 3mm margins, divided by two. [7] 

For an in situ installation, the pieces are cut as required and assembled with hidden joinery such as dowels.

Bookcases and shelves

Built exactly the same with joinery - just draw a[8]  diagram and explain.