In applications, the overall assembly of these boxings is similar in principle to the first fix boxings and ladder frames that we’ve already looked at. Frames can be assembled from finished 2”x1” batten and installed in place to accommodate the installation of MDF or panelling over it. Battens should be installed behind the joins of these materials for additional stability. It goes without saying that all of the standard criteria such as plumb, level, and square are also relevant here. Once assembled, the finished MDF surface will be primed and painted. As such, any screws installed should be countersunk to allow the heads to be effectively filled. Additionally, any corners should have the sharp edge taken off of them, with any joins in the mdf being sanded or planned down flat to allow the transition to be filled seamlessly.

As the boxings are more or less the same as first fix boxings, a full explanation is unnecessary. Here are some illustrations of these boxings with the critical elements highlighted.

Utility cupboards

As mentioned, these cupboards are a common custom component that are used to house unsightly utilities that still require access. Generally speaking, they are simple box shapes, though depending on their location they may be irregularly shaped. Depending on the overall width of the cupboard, they may feature a single door, or a pair of doors. When creating these cupboards, we try to keep them as small as possible, and as tight to the utility as we can to reduce the size.

To create these custom cupboards, the process is very straightforward, and is as follows. First, mark out the wall surrounding the panel in order to work out the size of our front piece. We will be making the box as one piece, and attaching it to the wall by screwing it into timber battens that are mounted to the wall around the panel. By using batten as a correct thickness spacer, we can see clearly where our box will receive into. On the outside of these battens, a thickness of MDF will be present too. As such, we need a front panel cut to the length and width of the outside of battens plus the thicknesses of MDF. In our instance the MDF is 12 mm thick. Using a tape measure we can also work out how deep our surrounding pieces need to be. These pieces will be placed into the front panel so that no joints can be seen from the front of the box. Battens are screwed in place to the back of the front panel to provide additional fixings for the side pieces. With the box assembled, we can place it on the wall. It's not uncommon to have to scribe the box into the wall if the plaster finish is not perfectly flat. With the box scribed in we can attach the battens to the wall in the correct location to receive the box.

Now all that is left is to cut the doors out of the front panel. Mark out the location for the door/s on the front panel, leaving enough room around the margin if possible to attach a batten on the inside of the box once the doors are cut out. Using a rail saw or a skill saw, cut out the doors, making sure not to overcut the corners. A handsaw can be used to finish the corners. With the door removed, we can clean up the corners and the edges of the cuts. Due to the small margin requirement of the door/s in the opening, the saw blade kerf is typically sufficient. If not, a few passes of a plane around the edges of the door will reduce it to the correct size. If the offcut is to become two doors, simply cut it in half again directly down the middle. From here, a supporting batten for the hinges can be added to the back side of the hinge side of the doors. Chop in the hinges as normal and ensure that the door closes in the opening with a good margin. A magnetic stop to secure the door and a small knob are typical features of a box like this. With the door cut out and installed we can slide the box over the battens attached to the wall and secure it in place.