Stud partitions
Within residential construction, the various floors of the abode are split into separate rooms through the use of partitions. Many houses in the UK that were constructed between 1900 and 2000 feature partitions predominantly made from masonry. Whilst timber stud partitions have existed in more or less their current form for centuries, modern timber partitions are utilised in a wider array of applications than ever before.
What is a stud partition?
In modern residential construction, interior stud partitions are a staple of the construction process. Stud partitions are a form of partition that are assembled from timber. Whilst they are sometimes implemented in load bearing applications, most often they form the simple non-structural division between rooms. The term “stud partition” is a very by the book description of this construction component, with colloquial terms such as “studwork” or “stud walls” being used more frequently on site. These names themselves describe the utilisation of vertical timber studs in their assembly. Interior studs are typically faced either side with plywood or plasterboard and are capable of taking tiles or a painted/papered finish once plastered. The use of stud partitions in lieu of traditional masonry for internal partitions presents a handful of advantages given by the former over the latter. Here are some of the differences between the two styles -
● Non-load bearing masonry and non-load bearing timber offer the same primary qualities in terms of functional application. That being said, modern masonry requires the implementation of a footing to bear the weight of the wall itself. In contrast, the more lightweight stud partition can be erected directly on top of the screed with no required footing below.
● Additionally in relation to the weight of the timber partition, a timber beam (double or triple) is an acceptable load bearing component for an upstairs/suspended partition. This is in contrast to masonry installed in the same application, which would require an RSJ or a continuous masonry support below.
● For an experienced carpenter, the erection of a stud wall is faster and less labour intensive than a masonry partition of the same size, simply because there is less labour and materials involved. Both of these factors are considered in terms of cost allocation and planning.
● Utilities such as cables and pipes are far easier to install for other trades within a stud wall in comparison to a stud partition. Whilst it's true that small diameter pipes and cables can be chased into the masonry, as well as being sheathed with conduit before the dry lining process, larger diameter pipes are not able to be contained within the space occupied by a masonry wall. This fact leads to the common installation of utility boxings to encapsulate rogue waste pipes. Within the context of non-structural stud partitions, larger diameter pipes can be run both horizontally and vertically through the studs and blocking with relative ease, and without compromising the integrity of the wall.
● The nature of the timber assembly of a stud partition provides a more suitable and reliable fixing for components installed after the plastering stage. As discussed elsewhere, there are a wide range of mechanical anchors and fixings that can be used to fix components securely into masonry. This being said, these fasteners are only as reliable as the masonry itself. The SDS required for drilling the installation holes for these fasteners can cause unnecessary vibrations within the immediate vicinity. Old or poorly installed masonry can be crumbly with soft mortar beds, providing a poor grab for the mechanical fasteners. In contrast, the vertical timber studs, as well as purpose installed blocking, can be screwed directly into with regular timber and coach screws, providing an incredibly positive hold. The purpose installed blocking can be placed at any height within the partition to allow for specific components to be installed with ease.
● When forming rough openings for doorways within non-structural partitions, the typical assembly associated with structural stud openings is not required. With no weight being distributed down onto the top plate of the partition, there is no structural requirement for a load bearing timber lintel installed as a header. This also eliminates the requirement for the double stud assembly either side of the opening. In contrast, masonry walls, even if non-load bearing, require a concrete lintel installed above the rough opening in order to support the masonry above the opening.
● Because of the fewer materials and lower labour intensity, the cost of stud partition is typically cheaper for the same area in masonry.
This being said, there are a few disadvantages to using stud partitions in internal applications, namely the lack of rigidity in comparison to a masonry wall. Whilst a well-formed stud partition is very solid and adequately sound dampening when insulated correctly, a few knuckle raps on the finished surface instantly reveals the fact that the partition is made of stud. The span of the plasterboard across the vertical studs can act as an amplifier for the sound and can vibrate the wall if tapped hard enough. In contrast, a solid masonry wall that has been plastered or hard walled offers little sound resonation or vibration and is naturally sound dampening. However, masonry walls that have been “dot and dabbed” still produce a hollow vibrating sound when tapped, similar to a stud wall.
Another modern construction method consists of extruded stainless steel studs that are used to erect metal stud partitions. These materials are used in larger scale operations for their cost-effective properties, and less labour-intensive installation processes. We will look at how these metal studs are installed shortly and discuss the benefits and shortcomings of this material.
What are the criteria for the installation of stud partitions?
In order for stud partitions to be effective in their intended role, as well as being assembled professionally, they must meet a few criteria. Firstly, the bottom/sole plate of the partition must be sat atop an appropriate bearing, such as a double joist, or on top of a row of blocking between two joists. If the flooring is laid before the installation of the wall, provision must be made before laying the floor to support the wall after installation, such as installing a row of solid blocking. The top plate similarly needs adequate provisions above it for fixing purposes, such as a row of blocking or a joist. The plane of the wall should be perfectly plumb from top to bottom, with the studs connecting the two plates being plumb along both axes. Exterior and interior corners where the partition meets another partition, or changes direction, should be perfectly square where required. For changes in direction intended to be out of square, such as for a 45 degree change in direction, attention to accuracy must be applied. Solid blocking must be installed at adequate intervals horizontally between the studs to prevent twisting in the studs and provide stability to the partition. The intersection of components such as blocking to stud or stud to plate should be flush with each other to prevent damage to the plasterboard covering. Studs within the wall should be vertically straight to an allowable tolerance, with provisions being made to correct excessively bowed studs. All the studs within the partition should be crowned in the same direction to reduce the total deviation of the finished plaster on both sides of the wall.
How are stud partitions installed?
Timber partitions come in many shapes and varieties to suit the requirements of different applications. Here we shall look at the basic construction of a simple wall to wall timber partition, and the methods that can be used to go about it. After that, we shall look at the variations of this design, alongside the pertinent differences and key points.
Straight wall to wall stud partitions
For all intents and purposes, a standard wall to wall straight stud partition is the easiest style to assemble of the stud partition variations, and one of the simplest carpentry components to erect as a whole. The first method of assembly involves forming the partition on the floor and then lifting it into place. This process is faster and more efficient than the alternative of building the stud in situ, but requires floor space near the location of the partition's installation area. This method is also best suited for areas where the floor and ceiling joists are perfectly level, or where the ceiling joists are not yet installed. These factors make this method ineffective for the installation of partitions in older houses where the floor or ceiling may have sagged. For the assembly of stud partitions in non-perfect openings, building the stud in situ is more effective - a method we shall look at shortly.
The first step in the procedure of assembling a stud frame on the floor is to lay out the area intended for the partition and make allowances for its installation. In new builds, the specific location for the partition will be clearly shown on the architectural drawings. In terms of a specific location during renovation and remodelling works, information must typically be discerned from the real-life surroundings in conjunction with the plans. It's not uncommon to find that plans drawn for renovations may not accurately display the true measurements and dimensions of the existing building. Plans such as these are commonly created using the original buildings plans as a reference, which may not be accurate to the current state of the building. Additionally, newly drawn plans will rarely consider any discrepancies in the squareness of an existing building when adding in measurement. As such, we must decide the location of the partition based on the purpose of its installation. Here are a few drawings of scenarios in which discretion is required.
1 - In this scenario, the total measurement of the existing room as shown on the drawing is less than what is displayed on the drawings. The partition is to be erected in this room to create a bathroom and a walk-in wardrobe. Both new rooms feature the desired measurements on the drawings, though these two measurements in addition to the thickness of the partition are wider than the actual width of the existing room that we have to work with. As such, we must assess the requirements of the partition to formulate a plan. In this instance, we can see that a standard 1700mm long bathtub is to be installed tight from wall to wall in the bathroom, with no specific size requirements for the furniture that will be featured in the wardrobe. Seeing as shrinking the bath would be undesirable, making the wardrobe smaller in favour of keeping the internal dimensions of the bathroom the same fits the primary requirements of the partition. Similarly, in a scenario where the actual measurements are longer than the on-drawing measurements, we still want to keep the bathroom the same size to accommodate the accurate installation of the bath, thus creating a larger wardrobe.
2 - In this instance, we have another room in which the actual width is smaller than the width on the drawings. The existing room is to be split up into a utility room and a walkway. Whilst the utility features white goods and cupboards, they are laid out along the back wall parallel to the partition, and so we are not restricted in width here. However, if the partition is assembled with the inside width of the utility as shown on the drawings, then the walkway becomes too tight to be able to get a full set of architraves around the desired 30” door. In this instance, as we are not restricted for width in the utility, sneaking the partition over a few inches will allow us to put a full set of architraves on the door without having to scribe one or both sides in. This also gives the door handle more clearance from the face of the wall, allowing additional room for a door stopper to be fitted.
3 - In terms of convenience - provided the client is okay with the decision - small adjustments can be made to the location of the partition in order to pick up existing supports. For example, when erecting partitions in existing rooms, provision must be made in the floor and ceiling in order to support the partition and provide adequate fixing locations. This often means disrupting the ceiling or cutting up the floor to install blocking if the stud does not fall in line. If the drawn location of the stud is very close to but not directly on a ceiling or floor joist, then the stud can be shifted slightly in order to pick it up. Whilst this decision is not strictly up to the operator, time and money can be saved if this option is chosen.
Once the location of the partition is determined, the full layout can begin. The first step here is to mark the intended internal width of the room, from the existing wall to the inside of the desired partition. The intended measurement for the width of the room is measured from both ends of the reference wall and connected with either a chalk line or a laser line. A folding square or the 3,4,5 method is used to check that this line is perpendicular from the other walls, with adjustments being made to the line if necessary, by shortening or lengthening one of the dimensions based on discretion. Keep in mind the intention for the room again, making sure that any corners receiving baths or shower trays etc are the priority for squaring, as it may not be possible for all 4 corners of the room to be 90 degrees (this is determined by the existing layout). With the initial inside room dimensions marked, the thickness of the wall coverings needs to be marked backwards to denote the location of the actual studwork. For regular partitions, 15mm is allowed on each side of the timber for the thickness of plasterboard plus plaster/skim. If the wall is being tiled, we need to allow around 30mm from the plate, 12.5mm for the plasterboard backer and around 15-20mm for tile and adhesive, depending on the thickness of the tiles. Whatever the build-up, this allowance must be measured backwards from the internal room width mark. This new location is the exact edge of the studwork. These new registration marks are taken up the vertical walls with a spirit level and connected across the ceiling line to create a registration mark around the full perimeter of the partition.
With the location for the partition marked, provisions for the installation of the partition can now be effectively made in the correct areas. With the visual aid of the partition layout, it is easy to see where any blocking/pickups may need to be installed in order to support the partition. If the studwork lands on the floorboards between two parallel joists, then a row of blocking must be installed in order to support the partition. The same goes for blocking in the ceiling. If access under the floor is not possible from beneath, then unfortunately the flooring must be cut up neatly in order to install the blocking. If the partitions run perpendicularly to the joists, these provisions are unnecessary, as the plate will sit across the top of all of the joists within the room. In new builds or renovations, the location of partitions can be accommodated long before the partitions are actually assembled, with necessary blocking being installed before the floor or ceilings are boarded during the joisting stages. Alternatively, the partition may be installed directly on top of and underneath the joists before floorboarding, allowing for the easy installation of any required blocking. In this scenario, additional blocking may be required in order to provide pickups for floorboards and plasterboard that would be disrupted by the location of the partition.
With all the necessary provision made for the installation of the partition, the individual components of the partition are ready to be cut. Note that the previous layout and preparation steps are a prerequisite for the installation of all of the types of timber partitions, as well as the different methods of installation.
For the assembly of the partition on the floor, measurements of the dimensions of the area need to be taken. Assuming the room is perfectly square and true in this instance, a measurement of the total height of the room (from floor to ceiling, or top of floor joist to underside of ceiling joists), and the total width of the room is taken. Regular internal stud partitions are assembled from standard untreated 4”x2” CLS. Using this material, 2 lengths at the measurement of the width of the room are cut for the top and bottom plates. The plates are laid side by side on edge in order to effectively mark them both out at the same time. With the ends of the plates flushed together, any pertinent details in the partition, such as the location of a door opening are marked first. The end of each length represents the face of the existing walls that the partition is being installed between, and so measurements for these important features can be pulled from the end of the plates. By marking these important components first, we can ensure the correct layout for the rest of the partitions afterwards.
For door openings, the space between the two studs that form the opening should be 2 ½” wider than the width of the door itself. This allows space for the door lining to be installed with enough room for the lining to be shimmed. For example, the opening size between the two studs for a 2’6”/30” door would be 32½”. With these critical locations marked on the plates, a standard 400mm centre layout can begin in order to effectively receive the plasterboard. The two end studs within the partition fall flush with the inside of the plates. By pulling a tape from one end of the plate, the centre of every stud can be found by marking 400mm increments. This 400mm OC layout will accommodate the correct installation of standard metric plasterboard sheets (2.4mx1.2m). With these points marked on the side of the plates we can easily see where the studs will fall during assembly. For increased accuracy, a small saw notch or nail can be made on the centre point of the first stud. By offsetting the registration point of our tape measure, the 400mm increments that are pulled from this point will display the hard edge of the studs. Regardless of the preferred layout method, always ensure to clearly denote where the stud falls in relation to the layout lines in order to avoid confusion.
This layout can continue for the entire length of the partition or optionally stop and start either side of an opening if the wall is too short to effectively receive full length sheets of plasterboard. A square is used to transfer all the layout marks onto the sides of both plates. By counting the layout marks we can calculate how many studs are required within the partition. To work out the appropriate length for the studs, lay another timber on the floor, butted up perpendicularly to the two plates as shown in the illustration. Pull a measurement from the far side of the plates down the length of the timber and make an appropriate mark at the height of the room that was measured earlier. When this timber is cut and reorganised with the plates, we are left with a total height that is the perfect measurement from floor to ceiling in the desired location of installation.
Jumping forward temporarily, when lifting the fully assembled partition into place, the total stud is briefly taller than the room through its diagonal measurement during its arc of swing. In the previously mentioned scenario when fitting the partition to unfinished joists, this minimal additional length will simply deflect the joists and slot into place, with the joist returning to their original location when the partition is fully upright. However, during renovation and remodelling work, when erecting partitions in finished rooms with plastered ceiling, this deflecting is enough to damage the ceiling finish, and even the finish of the ceiling on the underside of the floor joists if applicable. As such, for these not structural internal partitions, when following the procedure of assembling the partition on the floor, it is recommended to intentionally cut the studs slightly short (around ¼”-⅛”) and shim any remaining gap left between the top plate and the ceiling when the partition is fully upright.
Jumping back to the assembly process, with the desired length of stud acquired, cut the appropriate number for assembly. When all of the studs are cut, clear the floor space for assembly. Lay one of the plates on the floor, preferably though not necessarily against a wall for ease of assembly. Lay the studs on the floor butted up to the layout markings on the plate, crowning them all in the same direction as you go. With all studs in place, butt the other plate into the ends of the studs and begin to line them up with the layout markings. Using a nail gun with 90mm nails or 4” nails and hammer, nail the plate to the studs through the outside face of the plate, ensuring that the intersecting timbers are flush on the upwards facing surfaces. Use 2-3 nails for each stud. The wall at the other end of the partition will resist any hammer blows or nail gun recoil and prevent the total assembly from sliding around. Alternatively, if using a wall is impractical, use a foot to stabilise the fixing process of each joist, with downwards pressure from the heel resisting the stud's desire to move backwards. This downwards pressure also helps to keep the intersecting timbers flush with each other.
With all of the studs nailed through one plate, move to the other end of the partition and repeat the process. With the main portion of the partition assembled, finishing components such as the rows of blocking and any door openings can be installed. Jumping forward again, after the installation of the partition, the bottom plate within the door opening will be removed. In order to make this process easier in the future, we can cut halfway through the bottom of the sole plate now before installation, either side of the door opening, saving our cutting tool from contacting the floor in the future. This being said, we will leave the sole plate still partially connected together now to keep the partition rigid during its installation. From the bottom of the sole plate, a mark can be made up both sides of the timber opening, 80” from the bottom of the plate if the wall is sitting directly on the flooring, or 81” if the wall is sat on the joists. This mark serves as a reference for the bottom of the opening header, with appropriate room underneath the header for the installation of a full height door lining.
Cut a header from a length of timber at the width of the opening for the door and install it on this mark. A cripple stud should be installed above the header, either centre of the opening, or continuing on the 400mm layout centres. To install the blocking, several methods are acceptable. Traditionally, straight rows of blocking would have been installed every 400mm vertically, for supporting old-school plasterboard as well as traditional lathe and plaster finishes. In fast pace modern construction, the typical method of installation for blocking is a central staggered row at around 4’ off the floor, close to half the height of the wall. With the primary purpose of the blocking being to stabilise the studs and prevent twisting and warping over time, this fast and easy method of installation is acceptable.
To install these blocks on the floor, make a mark 4’ up from the sole plate at each end of the partition and snap a line between the two. Each sequential block will alternate its position above and below this line, to allow for ease of fixing. To quickly mark and cut the blocking, take appropriate lengths of timber to either the top or bottom of the partitions, and butt one end into a stud. Use a pencil to mark a line on the timber against the next stud and cut the timber to this length. The length of this piece of blocking is the perfect size to keep the centre of the studs straight and on centre, as we marked the length off of the initial layout without having to measure anything. A more thorough and marginally more labour-intensive procedure for the installation of blocking sees multiple rows of straight blocking installed centrally upon repeating 1200mm intervals measured down from the top of the partition. By installing the blocking in this fashion, we can fully support the edges and joins between the rows of plasterboard that will sheath the partition. The process is the same as before, though the lack of staggering slows down the installation process slightly due to the increased times and precision required to install the blocking.
At this point, the partition is fully assembled and is ready to be installed in the opening. Stand the partition up and slide it into place, applying force if required to locate it correctly. Align the partition to the layout marks in the desired area and use a level to double check it for plumb. Once located correctly, use screws/nails/mechanical anchors as required to fix both plates and the two outsides studs into the surrounding surfaces. Once the partition is securely fixed, the bottom plate within any openings can be fully cut out, completing the installation of the partition.
Straight partitions erected in situ
In existing properties or rooms in which the ceiling or floor is potentially deflecting, or the width of the room at the bottom and top are not equal, assembling the partition on the floor is more complex, and usually more hassle than it's worth. The easier alternative in this scenario is to assemble the stud in situ in its upright and final location. Due to any deflections in the floor or the ceiling in the location of the intended partition, the individual studs that make up the partitions may not all be the same length, as well as a potential for the plates to be different lengths. Irregularities in the vertical surfaces in which the partition will receive could also result in the outside most studs in the partition to be installed out of plumb in the plane of the wall, resulting in the overall partition component not being square. A combination of all of these factors makes the accurate assembly of a stud on the floor challenging.
For this process, all of the initial layout steps and provisions for installing the partition should be followed as normal as with the regular standard procedure. With the location of the stud marked, each of the components can be cut and installed in sequence. A tape measure is used to acquire lengths for both the top and sole plates. Because there is no definite reference edge within the room, laying both of the plates out at the same time is ineffective, as there is no guarantee that the layout of the plates will be perfectly vertically aligned with each other during installation. As such, it's more effective to layout the bottom plate, and use a spirit level to plumb up the studs as they are installed. The bottom plate is laid out, ensuring the underside of any openings are partially cut. This sole plate can then be fixed in place on the layout marks using appropriate fixings. The top plate can be left off temporarily whilst the two outer studs are cut, though it can be screwed to the ceiling through the joists or solid blocking if desired. If both of the plates are installed, a measurement can be taken between the two at each end. If the top plate isn't installed, it can be placed on top of the fixed soleplate with the same measurements being taken as such
With the two end studs cut to length, they can be placed on the bottom plate, leaning against the wall as shown in the diagram. The top plate can be placed on top of these two studs and incrementally raised towards the ceiling by pushing the bottom of the studs towards the wall. As the studs come upright, the gap between the top of the top plate and the ceiling will shrink, until finally the studs come fully upright and the top plate is pinched tight against the ceiling. At this point a hammer can be used to tap these unfixed components into location, fixing them once happy. The frame of the partition is now installed, and the studs can be filled in accordingly.
The appropriate number of studs can be cut, left around an inch long to allow for individual scribing in accordance with the procedures we've already looked at. As each stud is cut, it can be fixed in place, secured first on the correct layout marks, and plumbed with a spirit level. Once all the studs are installed, the header for any opening can be installed, followed by the solid blocking.
As mentioned before, a good height from the finished floor to the underside of the header for an opening is about 80”, with adequate room to the house the approximate 79” full height lining, as well as a small tolerance for shimming/packing. The blocking should be installed at heights in relation to the desired outcome, with a standard row of blocking being installed at around 4’ off of the subfloor. A 4’ level can be used to mark the location for the row of blocking on each stud in this scenario and is quicker typically than using a chalk line. Install the blocking and the header, plus the cripple stud above the header, and cut out the plate at the bottom between the two outside studs of the opening. The partition is now ready for sheathing/drywall.
Now that we’ve looked at the basic premise and installation of a simple wall to wall partition, here are some illustrations and explanation of the variations and pertinent details of different types of partitions.
90-degree corners in stud partitions
In this setup, a 90-degree corner is erected from studwork. In order to enable this particular component to be erected, the end of the first partition needs to have a timber pickup installed in order to receive the other partition. Additionally, provisions need to be made here in order to create an adequate pickup for the plasterboard sheathing on the inside of the room. A common detail for the timber pick up here in the case of standard 4” timber studs, features 2 full height studs in the end of the first partition, spaced apart from one another with timber blocks. The total width of this assembly allows for the full width of the end stud of the secondary partition to seat correctly, with enough additional timber coverage on the inside of the room for appropriate plasterboard fixing.
For partitions formed from other widths of materials, three full height studs and some offcuts may be required, with two studs being spaced apart with the full height stud on edge on the inside of the partitions, and the offcuts spacing the studs on the outside. These methods help to reduce the amount of timber required in order to form a solid fixing point for the secondary partition to come into.
Alternatively, the first partition can be assembled with two full height studs at the end of the wall, installed tight to each other with no spacing. The inside face of the first partition can then be sheathed with plasterboard, with the secondary wall coming into the face of the plasterboard. This method reduces the amount of timber required for the timber pickup and eliminates the requirement for a plasterboard pickup in the inside corner of the room. This being said, one of the prerequisites for this method is having appropriate amounts of plasterboard on site during the erection of the studwork, which may not always be the case depending on the schedule and sequence of works.
Non square angled corners
In these scenarios we see one or more changes of direction in a partition that are not 90 degrees. For these situations, there are a few different approaches we can take in terms of assembly. Looking at each from a top-down perspective, depending on the angle of the change in direction, we could maintain one straight partition, with an angle cut on the plates of the second wall coming into it. Alternatively, we could half the angle of the change and cut the respective angle on both plates for them to come together as such. The end studs in either of these scenarios remain on layout and square with the plate, with the corners of the studs coming together at the point of contact between the partitions on the inside angle of the change in direction. Whilst this provides adequate plasterboard pickups on the inside of the room, the very corner of the outside of the room requires an additional insert in order to receive the sheathing. In order to rectify this issue, we can cut a custom stud to provide a pickup for the sheathing, as well as fix the two end studs together and prevent them from bowing and twisting. The creation of this custom stud requires 2 rip cuts to be made on it, as shown in the diagram. Aside from this special component and custom angle cuts on the ends of the plates, this type of partition follows the standard assembly procedure.
Half wall partitions
As the name suggests, these partitions do not span the full height of a room, typically serving as low height divisions between rooms or for custom balustrades around raised floors or stairs. For all intents and purposes, these partitions are assembled in exactly the same fashion as standard studs, with the exception of the reduced height. Due to the limited surfaces for fixings, extra precaution should be taken to ensure the stable installation of these partitions. Brackets, heavy duty mechanical anchors, as well as structural sheathing may be required during installation in order to improve rigidity and stability of the partitions. Additionally, the partition may need to be braced prior to sheathing in order to keep the component square. Small returns built into the partitions can help to stabilise the total structure.
“T” intersections in stud partitions
This variation of partition is similar in concept to the right-angled stud intersection. In this scenario, a timber pickup is required within the run of the main partition in order to provide adequate fixing for the secondary partition to receive into. This pickup needs to be wide enough to provide a full fixing for the end stud of the secondary partition, as well as providing necessary pickups for the sheathing on either side of the wall. In many respects, this timber pickup is easier to understand than that of a right-angled pickup, as the arrangement of studs for the pickup is more intuitive. Two full studs fall either side of the intersection in order to provide a plasterboard pickup, with a full-size stud on edge between the two for the timber grounding, spaced with offcuts behind it.
Long walls with multiple lengths for plates
On some occasions, stud partitions are longer than commonly available timbers are. This means that the plates within the partition must be assembled from multiple lengths of timber. In these scenarios, there are a number of procedures we can take to successfully assemble stud partitions with multiple lengths of timber for plates. For partitions that are not dramatically longer than a common 3 metre length of internal timber then we can still assemble the hole stud on the floor with a smaller length of timber extending the plate to the correct length. By staggering the layout of the two plates in relation to each other, we can maintain full stability within the wall without any complicated steps. The two sections of plate can be butted together and strengthened with a small section of timber fixed over the joint. Any studs whose layout falls on this block should be cut short to receive into it. Alternatively, though not necessary, the joints can be half lapped, with an additional strengthening block being optional. For any scenarios where the plates are made from multiple lengths, extra attention should be paid during the installation point of the wall to ensure that the partition remains straight. For very long walls, the total partition can be divided into smaller sections made from single plates and joined together during assembly. These partitions are made in accordance with the standard procedure, though the total on centre layouts need to be continuous along the overall length of the section to maintain appropriate centres for the plasterboard sheathing. Additional studs at both ends of the sections need to be installed, even off of the layout, to allow for the section to be successfully fixed together. As always, care should be taken to install all of the sections in a straight line.
Sloped plate partitions
Internal sloped partitions are common within loft conversions and are relatively simple in terms of their construction. The difference between these partitions and regular square partitions are the angled top plate. Assembling these partitions on the ground can be more trouble than it's worth, with the installation and assembly being much easier when building the partition in situ. To assemble these partitions in situ, the same standard procedures should be followed, with the exception being alterations to the top plate. This plate requires a rafter plumb cut at each end in order to fully receive into the corners of the slope. The tops of the studs are also cut at an angle to enable them to fully seat against the underside of the top plate. Fixing the top plate into the desired location and marking the angle and length of the studs is the easiest procedure for cutting the studs to length, though the OC diminish can be calculated in the same method that we looked at in the construction of rake walls. The length and angles of the studs can also be worked out in this fashion, though a simple way exists. Openings within an angled partition are formed in the same way as regular openings, though in very tight spaces the opening, door lining, and respective door may also be angled.
Shower nooks in partitions
When assembling timber partitions that surround or face a shower tray or bath, a custom nook can be easily formed within the partition to provide a space for shower related accessories such as shampoo bottles to be stored for convenience. The majority of the time, these nooks will be formed within non load bearing internal partitions and as such we have much room for custom sizing. The first step is to establish a size for the nook itself. An easy size to work with is a square opening that is the width between two studs. Alternatively, if a wider nook is desired, we can cut or leave out a stud during the main assembly of the partition in order to facilitate this. With the desired size and height of the nook established, install a timber between the studs to form the bottom of the opening. Measure up from this and install another timber the same length to form the header of the opening. Conveniently, a good height for a nook in a standing position in a shower utilises the row of solid blocking in the partition as the bottom timber of the opening. If creating a wider opening that spans more than 2 studs on centre, then the top and bottom cripple studs need to be installed after the installation of the two trimmer timbers. In order to provide stability to the back of the opening, a 9 or 12mm plywood cutout can be installed in the opening and fixed in place by screwing through the plasterboard sheathing of the other side of the partition. This allows adequate support for the tiler when they come to finish the shower installation.
Custom timber or plywood pickups in partitions
In terms of thinking ahead whilst forming timber partitions, nothing is more convenient and satisfying than installing timber pickups in preparation for future components to be installed. Many furnishing components, such as TV’s, cupboards, shelves etc. are wall mounted. Whilst solid fixing can be found in the actual studs themselves, larger components that feature fixing plates or brackets may require larger solid fixings within the wall. In order to achieve this, we can install solid blocking on edge between studs in the areas that will receive a future mounted item. Multiple offcuts, wider timber, or even plywood cutouts can be installed in this manor to provide solid fixings within the wall behind the plasterboard sheathing. To fix plywood cutouts in these partitions, fix battens to the inside of the studs the thickness of the plywood back from the front edge of the timber. The cutout can then be fixed to the battens, with the plasterboard sailing over the face of the whole assembly.
Straightening internal studs
When assembling partitions, studs should be checked for bow and crowned in one direction or the other. This ensures that any overall bow within the wall is localised to one side. Particularly bad studs with a very harsh crown should be cast aside where possible. Sometimes though this is not an option, or there is a potential for poor timber to be installed accidentally. In non-load bearing scenarios, procedures can be taken to straighten bad studs such as these. By making a 45-degree cut approximately ⅔ to ¾ of the way through the middle of the rounded side of a stud, a nail or screw can be used to push the stud inwards. A block can then be installed along the side of the cut to strengthen the timber again. Doing so makes no practical difference to the strength of the partition. Note that this process is not appropriate for use with structural studs, as the cut will weaken the stud’s structural capacity. Ensuring the overall surface of a wall is flat within an allowable tolerance with no sharp deviations allows for a flat surface finish on the plasterboard.
What are metal stud partitions?
Metal stud extrusions are a lightweight modern adaptation of traditional timber studs. These thin, “U” shaped galvanised steel extrusions are used as a more cost effective and labour-saving alternative to timber stud partitions in larger scale modern construction. The implementation of this system is more or less the same as the assembly process of timber partitions, with vertical studs receiving into crown and sole plates respectively. For the plates, the open “U” shape of the track faces inwards towards the wall, with the studs being cut tight between the floor and the ceiling and sliding fully inside of the plates. The intersecting points where these components meet are mechanically fastened together through the use of self-tapping screws, or special punching tools that crimp the metal components together. The extrusion itself can be easily cut with a hacksaw, tin snips, or a grinder, making them arguably easier and cleaner to cut than timber studs. When erected correctly, this system can provide a very stable frame that is capable of receiving plasterboard sheathing. Additionally, these studs are typically thinner in width than standard timber partitions, as well as possessing a far better fire-resistant rating than timber. As such, this material is perfect for framing around fireplaces or other hot areas, in combination with the use of fire resistant/heat rated sheathing. Whilst they do have their benefits, timber partitions are typically more rigid in terms of vibration and deflection, as well as providing better acoustic insulation. Overall, whilst these metal extrusions are very innovative, they are not so frequently used in small scale residential construction/ renovation. In relation to the downsides of the studs mentioned, these do not apply in commercial or office scenarios, and are a great material choice here.